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DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELE-BALANCING SYSTEM. 





Entered according to Act of Congress in tlie year 1888 by DITTMAR & SHEIFER, in the Oflfice of the 

Librarian of Congress at Washington. 


CAUTION.—A legal right to use this work must show its conveyance to the subscriber by its number and 
license, with the signature of the Authors attached. 

Any infringement or unauthorized use will be prosecuted to the full extent of the Law, it having been decided 
by the Librarian that the contents are fully covered and protected by the copyright. 


RUBENS’ POWER PRESS, NEW YORK. 



10- 3 £/) LL, rew'J 


























'''p'HE facilities of this Academy for imparting reliable and thorough instruction in Ladies’ and Gents’ Garment Cutting 
are not equaled in this country. The systems taught have received the unqualified indorsement of the Cutting fraternity 
as correct in theory and reliable in practice. To those who are not practical Cutters the charge is One Hundred Dollars for a 
thorough and complete course of instruction in Garment Cutting; but to Practical Cutters, not occupying more than one week 
or ten days at the outside in learning, the charge is Fifty Dollars. 

The time occupied by students in acquiring a perfect knowledge of Cutting, averages from three to six weeks. No limit 
is placed upon the time to be occupied by young beginners, as we desire that they shall not leave the Academy until we are 
satisfied of their efficiency. 

The Academy is open for instruction daily (Sundays excepted) from 10 a. m. to 3 p. M., and pupils may commence at any time. 


CUSTOM (DETATTMEJVT 


OF THI 


^cnlors <ztT)d Cullers Bxcl)eir)cjc. 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 








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WHOLESALE TETATTMEMT 


OF THE 


^pailors ar)J Cullers Exc^arjcje, 

























































































































































































































4 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



Our System of Cutting. 6 

The Dress Centre. 6&7 

The Measuring for Coat and Vest. 8 

Drafting a Coat. to 

Drafting the Sleeve.. 12 

Power of Memory. . 14 

Apply Measurements. 14 

The Tailors’ and Cutters’ Exchange. 14 

Draft of Three and Four-Button Cutaways. 16 

The Pecuniary Value of Taste. 16 

Drafting a Double-Breasted Prince Albert. 18 

General Observation. 18 

Drafting a Full Dress Coat. 20 

The Dignity of Tailoring. 20 

Drafting Sack Coats. 22 

Drafting Overcoats. 24 

Importance for Overcoats. 24 

The Shoulder Cape. 26 

The Source of Knowledge. 26 

The Measurements for Vests. 28 

Drafting a Vest. 28 

Fashion. 26 

Testimonials. 28 

Pants System. 32 

Drafting the Fore Part of Pants. 32 

Drafting the Back Part of Pants.•. 32 

Our System of Shirt Cutting. 32 

Remove Grease from Cloth. 32 

To Remove Acid Stains from Garments . 32 

To Restore Colors that have been Injured. 32 

Drafting Riding Pants. 34 

A Word to Cutters and Tailors. 34 

The Boy is Father to the Man. . . . 34 


Methods of Removing Various Stains. 

The Raglan or Inverness Coat. 

To Bleach Cotton Pure White. 

Waterproof Porous Cloth. 

The Livery Overcoat. 

Works on Cutting. 

Drafting the Uniform Coat. 

Uniform of the Army of the United States. 

The Full Dress Unifo.m. 

Uniform of the Army of the United States —continued 

The Fat Man’s Measure.. 

Uniform of the Army of the United States— continued. 

Draft of a Fat Man’s Vest. 

Our Book of Self-Instruction. 

The Combination of Styles and Colors. 

The Fat Man’s Pants. 

Uniform of the Army of the United States —concluded 
The Combination of Styles and Colors— concluded. . 

Drafting for a Hunchback. 

Trigonometrical Construction for Hunchback, Ac. . 

Special Notice. 

Ladies’ Costumes. . 

The Boys’ Draft. 

What I Know of Doctoring. 

Children’s and Ladies’ Costumes. 

The Boy’s Fancy. 

Kilt Skirt and Knee Pants. 

The Effects of Acids and Alkalis on Different Colors 

Tailors’ Implements. 

Drafting Ladies’ Riding Habits. 

Drafting Ladies’ Riding Skirt. 

Some Well-known New Yorkers and How They Dress 
Drafting Ladies’ Riding Trousers 
Terms for Instruction. 















































































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



^- 

TN presenting this work, we have the assurance of meeting the wants of the trade, by furnishing a system of actual 
measurement, combining pure geometrical principles with simplicity, in drafting all styles of over and under-coats, with the 
use of tape-measure only ; it is a system of measuring and drafting that will reach every shape, thereby givingus the high or 
low shoulder, erect or stooping form, shoulder, backward or forwards, narrow or wide arm-scye, narrow or wide backstrop ; 
in fact, producing a correct draft for all forms in as simple a manner as possible. 

With pleasure we call the attention of the public in general, especially the Tailors, to our “New and Improved System ” 
of cutting perfect fitting garments, a system simple in its construction, based on mathematical and practical principles, which 
can easily be mastered, and will compensate the pupil a thousand times over with its results. It has afforded many years of 
constant study and experimenting, and stands without a rival in Europe and America. 

ITS SIMPLICITY. 

The greatest importance attached to all mechanism is its simplicity ; without it we have complications which are 
liable to get out of order and cause trouble, but when everything is simple there are fewer chances of its causing annoyance 
and trouble. So it is with a system : too many of them being so complicated and call for so many measures, etc., that a 
student is perplexed at the multiplicity of his work and the numerous changes necessary to be made to successfully work the 
system. 

We would guard you against learning a system containing too many calculations ; the more simple they are, the less 
liable you are to err in using them. 

ITS RELIABILITY. 

In an engine the desideratum to be attained is reliability. When this point is satisfactorily settled there is no hesitancy 
upon the part of the builders to recommend it. They are then satisfied that its work will be thoroughly done, and they have 
no fear of failure. 

In this system of cutting its reliability has been settled beyond a question, and we have the proofs to offer which are 
open to the inspection of all interested parties. 

ITS SWIFTNESS OF EXECUTION. 

In these days of hurry, when time is reckoned so valuable that minutes as well as hours are considered, we all aim to 
economize time as much as possible ; “ time is money," therefore it is desirable in selecting a system to get one that pro¬ 
duces good results and consumes the least time in drafting the garment, for in so doing we are selecting the best-paying 
system. 

This system is not only simple in its construction, reliable in its results, but occupies less time to make a correct 
draft than any other offered. Hence it is pre-eminently to your advantage to learn it, for “economy is wealth.” 



vr> 















































6 DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



OUR SYSTEM OF CUTTING. 


The all-important question to be decided by every student in 
search of a system for garment cutting is, Which is the best system 
taught? 

He is met on the very threshold by the clamorous multitude 
of system teachers, all claiming, '■'par exceence ,” for their res¬ 
pective systems, which so confuses and perplexes him that, in 
despair, he is inclined to give up the search and denounce “ the 
whole race.” 

In all “callings ” as well as in theology there are “true as well 
as false teachers/' and in many cases it is difficult to decide be¬ 
tween them. But we must remember that, because there are 
“ talse teachers ” is no sufficient reason to denounce all. In all 
things we must discriminate, and, to a large degree, frame our 
judgment upon what we believe the most reliable evidence of¬ 
fered for our consideration, and not allow ourselves to be attract¬ 
ed as are the swarming bees by the din and clatter of noisy bells, 
tin horns, etc. 

While this is true regarding things in general, it is particularly 
true of all who are in search of a system. 

We should not be allured by the one making the loudest out¬ 
cry—“ a barking dog never bites.” You can apply the moral. 

You should act calmly and only after searching investigation. 
One of the surest tests of anything is the result —a pudding’s worth 
can only be decided by eating of it—a system’s worth can only 
be known by the standard and standing of its scholars. This is 
meant in a general sense, for you will admit that there are excep¬ 
tions to all rules, and it is impossible for professors to impart 
brains where none exist; hence a good system is occasionally con¬ 
demned when, in fact, the fault is to be attributed to the want of 
artistic ability on the part of the student. 


Cutters who are unsuccessful in their profession invariably 
attribute their failure to the system learned by them. Inquiry 
establishes the fact that, instead of the system being at fault, nine 
times out of ten it is the man himself. 

Incompetency and lack of ability only are the causes of his 
failure. 

As a rule most of the systems have some good points—many 
are defective—a few are good, and none perfect ; therefore, the 
object is to find the one as near perfection as possible ; and the 
best and surest way to judge of this is to definitely settle in your 
mind which system gives the greatest satisfaction in the most 
cases, and is most generally endorsed by the successful cut- 
’• ters. 

In such a search, and by an unprejudiced person, the Tailors’ 
and Cutters’ Exchange have no fear of being passed by, being 
confident that the system of cutting as taught by Dittmar and 
Sheifer presents points of excellence offered by few if any other 
system, and its endorsement by the most skilled cutters of this 
city is sufficient guarantee of its excellence without our entering 
into long columns of praise and laudation of its merits. 

But, for the benefit of those who may not be acquainted with 
the workings of this system, and the better to allow them to judge 
of its qualities, we will briefly mention its chief attractive points, 
viz., simplicity, reliability, and swiftness of execution. 


“THE DRESS CENTRE.” 


We will not presume to teach any one the art of correctly 
dressing a gentleman, but will mention a few points which no one 
will attempt to refute. Many persons have been annoyed by ar¬ 
ticles written on the “Corpulent Figure,” “ Extra Erect,” etc., and 
in most cases, after reading long and ‘tedious columns, it was 
found to be a “puff” of some particular system, claiming for it 





















































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 7 

perfection in producing garments to fit these irregular figures ; but 
not one idea could be gleaned from them which would aid a 
student to elucidate this vexed problem. No assistance was ren¬ 
dered the patient reader to overcome the difficulties of dressing 
properly and becomingly a short, fat man. We know that short, 
fat men invariably select sack coats and order them to be made 
to roll low. Nothing they might select could be farther from a 
becoming style of garment for such figures. They should in all 
cases wear a one-button cutaway walking-coat, buttoned high 
upon the chest, the lines of the front and skirt to gracefully curve 
in unison with the formation of the stomach ; the body of good 
length, and the skirt comparatively short. A coat thus made and 
of proper dimensions, will add the appearance of height to such a 
figure. You will remember that according to Chesterfield, in every 
man there is “ a dress centre]’ and when this “dress centre” is 
properly taken into account and correctly “ dressed” the man will 
be improved by it. 

By having a coat to button high upon the chest of a corpulent 
figure, with a gracefully curved front, the eye of the* beholder is 
naturally attracted to the top button, and naturally follows the 
curved line of the front until it reaches the bottom of the skirt. 
This curved line being long, we are impressed with the length and 
fail to notice the breadth of the man. A coat thus made, and upon 
such a figure, will add many inches, appparently, to his height. 

On the other hand, if the coat is more opened and buttoned 
lower down upon the stomach, the line of the front of the coat is 
correspondingly shortened, which adds breadth to the appearance 
of the man. It is a mistaken policy to cut the vest too long for a 
corpulent man ; it will give him a stunted appearance, and a too 
short vest has an equally bad effect. There is “ a happy medium ” 
which will be sought after, and, when found, will produce a 
pleasing effect. 

As an illustration of this fact regarding the buttoning of a coat 
high up on the chest of a corpulent man to affect length and give 
the appearance of height to a figure, take a circular body, say four 
or five feet in length, and forty or fifty inches in circumference, 
and from the centre paint radiating lines. The effect will be to 
shorten the appearance of the body. Whereas if you establish a 
point two-thirds or three-fourths of the entire length from the 
bottom of the figure, and paint radiating lines from it, you will 
have the appearance of a much greater length than actually ex¬ 
ists. 

These may justly be called “optical illusions,” but they are 
facts, and if once tried by any curious person will be found to be 
as stated. 

The same effect will be made upon a corpulent man by 
the lines of his coat diverging from a centre upon the body. Tiy 

A few months ago a stranger of very pronounced size and 
enormous belly entered the store of the writer and began a con¬ 
versation regarding cloths, etc. A few moments were sufficient 
to impress the belief that he was a man of some culture and wealth, 
but very poorly dressed ; that is to say he had on a double- 
breasted walking coat, of gray melton, buttoned low down on the 
stomach, large flaps at the hips, and long skirt. Finding he was 
“ a jolly good fellow,” and would allow familiarity, we alluded to 
his coat, remarking that it was of excellent material and well cut, 
but the style was entirely at variance with the wearer ; that no 
man of his shape should wear such a garment, especially when 
made to wear rolled down so low, as it had the effect of increasing 
his size and making him appear more broad and squatty than he 

. 

really was ; that a cutter understanding his business and duly ap¬ 
preciating the effect of style, colors, etc , would not have allowed 
him to wear such a garment. Taking no offence, but treating our 
remarks in the spirit they were intended, he good naturedly re¬ 
marked : “Can you improve my appearance?” We promptly 
answered that if he allowed the opportunity and not interfered 
with in our selection of goods and style of garment, we would 
have no fear of the result, and was positive we could please him 
and gratify his friends by the improvement made in his appear¬ 
ance. 

He as promptly gave the order to proceed unhampered by any 
remarks or suggestions from him, and at once we selected the 
goods and had him measured for a one-buttoned cutaway, to but¬ 
ton very high upon the chest. The vest was cut without a collar 
and moderately long. His pantaloons we had cut very low in the 
body (the front not to come above the navel) and to fit snug 
around the waist, with a wide inside band sewed in at the side 
seams and a little more snug than the pants, so as to prevent any 
strain apon the body of the pants, and at the same time to act as 
a support to the stomach. When finished they were sent to his 
home and we anxiously but patiently awaited the result. A few 
days elapsed, and early one morning he made his appearance and 
with excitement depicted upon his countenance exclaimed, “By 
* * * ! ” and then paused for want of breath. At once we pictured 
in our mind his indignant displeasure, and began to frame plausi¬ 
ble excuses so as not to be too much taken aback when his ex¬ 
hausted “ wind ” returned to him, but he finally added,. “ You are a ; 
success as a tailor. I never had such fitting and becoming gar¬ 
ments before. My wife and all my friends are jubilant at my 
improvecl appearance. You are a public benefactor to the fat 
men. Accepting the coat and vest as perfection, they are as noth¬ 
ing in comparison with the comfort to be had in wearing the pants- 
1 walk with more ease and comfort than I have done since attain¬ 
ing my immense size, and I come to pay my bill with more satis¬ 
faction and pleasure than ever before experienced in paying a 
tailor. At the same time accept the acknowledgment of my gra¬ 
titude and satisfaction.” The consequent result of this incident is 
that he has “ flooded ” us with fat men ever since, and thus proves 
his warm friendship and ardent admiration of our ability to pro¬ 
perly dress “fat men.” 

Our cutter, when requested to reduce the height of the bodv of 
the pants, hesitated and said, “All fat men want their pants high 
upon the stomach.” This may be true, but if the cutter will edu¬ 
cate—first himself, then the fat men—to the fact that much more 
comfort will come from having their pants a little lower at the front 
of the body, they will soon acknowledge their error and thank him 
for the suggestion. 

There is a too ready acquiescence on the part of the cutter to 
cut and make garments as they are ordered by their-customers, 
when their judgment and good taste tell them it is wrong. Cus¬ 
tomers will allow themselves to be dictated to on the subject of 
dress if they are impressed with the idea that the cutter is master 
of this subject, and to impress the customers with this belief it is 
necessary that the cutter should be able to thoroughly explain 
matters to his satisfaction. The plain truth is that cutters study 
too little the artistic necessaries of their profession, but are always 
found ready to talk flippantly and boast of what they can do. 
The majority of them are not blessed with modesty, but are blatant 
in extolling their worth. 

What we need and most wish for is an improvement in the 
status of our cutters. Refinement and the refining influence of 


























DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


study and research will do much towards this greatly desired end ; 
and we shall be more than repaid for the writing of this article if 
some one of our readers who have neglected these important 
duties shall at once begin to diligently study and improve them¬ 
selves ; instead of insisting upon their knowledge and proficiency, 
shall meekly give themselves to learning, and willingly accept 
knowledge from whatever source il may be derived, no matter 
how humble. 






Plate 1. 


Mhe Measurements. 




THE MEASURING FOR COAT AND VEST. 


A measure taken on a coat more or less wadded, or which 
does not fit, never produces a satisfactory result; in order to be 
correct, the measure should be taken on the vest. It is an error 
and prejudice to suppose that it is more difficult to measure with¬ 
out the coat. You will find an undoubted advantage in this sys¬ 
tem, and great facility in determining the exact form of the body, 
which is impossible when measured over the coat, let the operator 
be ever so talented. 

The measure ought to be taken with ease and dispatch, and 
it has a bad appearance to be moving around your customer ; 
placing yourself behind him, you can do all the measurement 
without change of position. It is of great importance that your 
customer should not assume a forced or unnatural position ; to 
avoid this difficulty, address him on some subject to attract his 
attention. Be also very careful, in measuring, to place the mea¬ 
sure close to the body, neither tight, loose, nor crooked. Apply the 
measure around the arm with your finger, in order to bring the 
looseness of the shirt close to the body ; take all of the same 
tightness, and those from the socket bone, without departing from 
it. 

The success of a coat depends greatly on the balance which 
the measurement can ascertain. However it must not be lost sight 
of that the human body is not a statue, and that the greatest care 
to seize the opportunity of having it on its natural position is of 
the greatest importance. It is not unusual that persons having a 
stuping attitude, erect themselves when they are to be measured. 
Take notice of it, and add, say £ or \ inch on the back balance 
according to your remark on his forced attitude, and all these 
points will locate themselves. 

Take position behind the customer for measuring, and see 
that his vest is in good order. Make a mark on socket bone, point 
A.—See Fig. i. 

Make a mark at the top of hip bone, perpendicularly with the 
front of shoulder bone. You may place a straight line from the 
front of the shoulder bone to the top of hip bone, point B.—See 
on Fig. i and 2. 

1 Shoulder measure front point A, over the shoulder, round 
the arm. See that your measure to be placed in good order and 
close to the arm, and coming to the centre of the back, say 22 
inches.—See Fig. 1. 


2 Width of shoulder from point A to the top of shoulder bone, 
say 7f inches.—See Fig 1. 

3 Depth of arm hole. Place a pencil or any other straight 
line under the arm. Take depth of arm hole from point A to the 
depth of arm, say 12 inches.—See Fig. 2. 

4 Front balance from point A over the shoulder straight down 
to point B, say 20 inches.—See Fig 2. 

5 Back balance from point A over the shoulder blade, down 
o point B, say igj 4 inches.—See Fig. 1. 

6 Adjustment from point B to the centre of back. Be care¬ 
ful that you have the measure in the centre of the back, say 7 x / 2 
inches.—See Fig. 1. 

7 Breast over the largest part of the chest and over the blade, 
say 36 inches. 

8 Waist; take it right close over hips, say 32 inches. 

9 Hip ; the largest part of the seat, say 37 inches. 

10 Length of sleeves, from point A or socket bone over the 
shoulder, in front of arm down to the risp, say 31 inches See 
Fig. 2. 

11 Length of waist according to style, say 18^ inches. 

12 Total length according to the style of coat to be cut for 
cutaways, say 32 inches. 





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DIT'l'MAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



Plate 2. 

COAT MEASURE. 

22 - VA - 12 - 20 - i9A - VA 

36 - 32 - 37 - 31 - i8A - 32 



Drafting a Doat 

BY THE SELF-BALANCING MEASUREMENTS. 

1 Draw line i on the edge of the paper. 

2 Square line 2 byline i. Have a perfect square with line 

1 and 2. 

3 Shoulder measure, 22 inches. Take 22 on Scale No. 1 
from line i to 3, draw centre line ; be careful to get that line 
straight. 

4 Depth of arm hole, 12 inches. Take 12 inches from line 

2 to 4 ; draw a line up. 

5 Front balance, 20 inches. Take 20 inches from line 2 to 
5 ; draw a line up. 

6 Adjustment measures, jA- Take jA inches Irom line 1 
to 6 (on line 5). 

7 Measure the distance from point 6 to line 3, say 4 A- Take 
the third part from line 3 to 7. 

8 From line 1 to 8, the same as there is from line 3 to 7. 

9 Back balance igA inches. Take igA inches from point 
7 to 9 (on line 1). 

10 Draw a line from 8 to 9. 

11 Square a line by point 9 and line 10. 

12 Width ot shoulder, 7 A inches. Take 7^ inches from 
point 9 (on line 11). 

13 Shoulder measure, 22 inches. Take 22 on scale No. 2 
from line 3 to 13 (on line 4) ; draw line from 12 to 13. 

14 Measure the distance from line 3 to point 13, say 4 A 

inches. Take 4 A on scale No. 3 from 9 to 14 (on line 11). 

15 From line 2 to 15 (on line 3) the same as there is from 9 

to 14 ; draw a line to the front. 

16 Measure the distance from point 12 to point 13. Take the 
A part and f 2 inches les from point 12 to 16. 

17 In centre between 16 and 13. 

18 Width of back from 2 to 2f 2 inches from point 8 to 18 (on 
line 5 ); now draft the back. 

19 In centre between point 9 and line 4 (on line 1). 

20 From line 2, the same as there is from point 9 to line 4 

(on line 1). 

21 Square by point 19 and into the corner of lines 3 and 4, 
up to line 15. Now draw a line from point 21 to point 20. 

22 Measure from point 14 to point 16 ; take the same from 
21 to 22. C. 1 inch from line 3. Now draw the arm hole from 


point 22, slightly curved to line C. and into the corner of lines 3 and 
4. Now start A inch above point 17, and curve down A below 
line 4 and into the corners of lines 3 and 4. 

23 Breast measure, 36 inches. Take the half of 36 from 10 i|> 
to 23 (on line 4). 

24 From point 23, according to the thickness of padding and || 
the material, and how measure has been taken tight or loose, but 
for measure taken carefully over the blade, the allowance from 2 

to 2A is a good medium. 

25 Measure the distance from point 23 to line 3, say 7. Take I 
the same in scale No. 3 from point 21 to 25. Draw a line from 
point 24 to 25. 

26 Measure the distance from point 24 to 25, and take the 
third part from 25 to 26. Draw a line from point 26 to 15. Now 
curve the neck gorge. 

27 Waist measure, 32 inches. Take off adjustment mea- I 
sure 7 A inches, which leaves 8 A inches from line 3 to 27 (on line 
5). F. A inch from point 27 to F. Now draw a line from point 

24 to F. 

28 6 inches below line 5. 

29 From point 18, the half of the distance there is from point 
6 to line 3. 

30 Seat measure, 37 inches. Take the fourth part of seat 
from line 3 to 30 (on line 28). 

31 From point 30 to 31 the same as from 8 to 18. Draw a 
line from point 29 and point 31 ; this line gives you the spring of 
skirt. 

32 Length of waist, 18 inches from the top of back, on point 
9 down to point 32, G. V 2 inch below 32. 

33 Measure the length from point 21 to G., say 21 inches. 
Now take (half) an inch less from the same point 21 to point 33. 
Now curve skirt from G to 33. 

Allowance for single-breasted one-button cutaway from point 
26, \ x / 2 inches to the point for lap ; then slightly curve round ac¬ 
cording to style ; now take off (half) an inch between skirt and 
forepart. 

The first button hole according to style. From 3 to 4 inches is 
a good medium, from the top of lapel; the last one in the seam 
of the skirt. 

The remainder of the button holes are to be divided between 
the first and last. 

Collars to be cut generally according to the taste of customer, 
either short or long roll, and must correspond with the roll on 
lapels, as preferred by the customer. 

If a short roll is preferred, take the first button hole which is to 
be buttoned. 

Make a line from the button hole to 21, which will be the 
crease of the collar ; now draw a line from the curve of neck i 
H. Measure the top of back from 9 to A, and apply the same 

from shoulder-seam to H. Now shape or form the collar the way 
it is on the diagram. 




















PLATE 2 


20 19 

































































12 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



Measure the top of Armhole from notch to notch, say 8*. Now measure the underpart of Armhole from notch to 
notch, say 8. 

A. Draw line A. 

B. Square line B. by A. 

C. Uppermeasure of Armhole 8-£ inches deduct inch, and take 8 inches from A. to C. 

D & E. Place your back with top of shoulder to line B. Draw line D. by notch of back and E. by line 4. 

F & G. The 5th part from line A. to F. and from line C. to G. as there is from A. to C. 

H. Place on the front line 4 and make point H. by notch of Armhole. 

I. Length of Sleeve measure 31 inches, now take off the depth of Armhole 12 inches from point H. and apply 31 inch, to I. 

J. In the centre between E. and I. 

K. Allow \ inch, from I. to K. 

L. Measure the distance from C. to point F. and apply same from K. to L. 

M. Underpart of Armhole measure 8 inches. Deduct inch, and apply 7^- inches from H. to M. This point gives you the 

under Sleeve, be careful not to hallow the under Sleeve to much. In cutting out Sleeve add i^- inches on the upper 

Sleeve for the fore Arm seam, and deduct 1^ inches from the under Sleeve for the same see (diagram). The upper 
part of Sleeve which joins point G., must be shaped according to Armhole if more hallowed out. You must allow 
more on line G. length of upper Sleeve must be cut f G f an inch shorter than the under Sleeve, as the upper Sleeve 
must be streched in length to form hollow on Arm. Allowance must be made for turn in at the bottom. 



















PLATE 





























































14 


DITTMAR & SIIEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


POWER OF MEMORY. 


A correspondent of Nature tells a curious story of an American 
waiter at the New York Fifth Avenue Hotel, who can take charge 
of fiv.e hundred hats at once, and always return the right hat to 
the owner, though most of the five hundred owners, and, of 
course, most of their hats, are completely strange to him. 

This waiter says that he “forms a mental picture of the own¬ 
er’s face inside of the hat, an that on looking at any hat the 
wearer’s face is instantly brought before his mind’s eye.” Here, 
then, if the account be accurate, is another case of a memory in¬ 
definitely strengthened by a power of visualizing impressions 
which most men never visualize at all. This man visualizes hats 
with faces under them, as great chess players who play without 
the board visualize the pieces set in particular squares; only this 
is a more remarkable exercise of the same power, since five 
hundred hats must contain many nearly exact copies of each 
other, while none of the sixty-four squares on a chess-board be 
confused together at all by any one who can make himself any 
accurate picture of them. 

While this may appear “fishy,” there is more truth in it than 
a casual reader will give credit. We will not maintain that it is 
“the whole truth and nothing but the truth,” but we believe that 
to a certain extent it is true. Some men possess remarkable 
faculties for connecting objects. We occasionally meet men who 
immediately recall the name of a person upon seeing his face; 
others associate places of residence with the face, etc. 

But what we wish to impress upon our readers by the above 
is, that it is a good thing for all cutters to cultivate this faculty. It 
is well to acquire the habit of photographmg the shapes, styles, 
etc., of their customers. By some device they should learn to 
impress indelibly upon their minds an exact counterpart of the 
various customers they measure; they should so study this sub¬ 
ject that by “looking over their man” they could produce, as it 
were, a facsimile of him upon paper by simply associating the 
measures taken with certain “points” they have noted down in 
their mind. 

We are positive this is a faculty that can be cultivated to ad- 

* 

vantage by every cutter, and we think it is his duty to cultivate it, 
for by so doing he fosters and gives life to an element which goes 
far toward helping him to succesfully draft his patterns so as to 
overcome the various defects which may exist in his customer 
and in his system for cutting. 




Plate 4. 


APPLY MEASUREMENTS. 


This Cut shows the perfectability of our Measurement 
System, and the corresponding results which the attentive Student 
can rely upon as a perfect guide to all the various forms of Gar¬ 


ment Cutting. 
A to 
A “ 

A “ 

A “ 

B 
B 

i 


( t 


(l 


1 Blade Measure. 

2 Width of Shoulder. 

3 Depths of Armhole. 

B Front Balance. 

4 Back “ 

5 Adjustment. 

6 Breast Measure allowance for Seam, etc. 

7 Waist 


in placing any pattern you may cut in the same position. You 
will find the like results to the above, which is a certain proof of 
the correctness of our Self Balancing System. 


THE TAILORS’ & CUTTERS EXCHANGE. 


The Tailors’ and Cutters’ Exchange, who are the publishers of 
this work, has been established for a number of year, and has 
always been held in high esteem by all who have become ac¬ 
quainted with its merits. It has had a steady and prosperous 
growth from its birth, and has always maintained its name for 
integrity and true worth. 

No loud-mouthed trumpets of brass have been engaged to 
sound its praise or proclaim its virtues, but it has gradually and 
quietly worked its way up from a small beginning until now it is 
an acknowledged power in the land, and its friends and patrons 
are to be found in all sections of this extensive country. Our 
students are from every State in the Union and the Canadas, and 
its graduates are to be found scattered all over the land. Among 
the faculty and members of “The Exchange” will be found some 
of the best-known tailors and cutters of this city and country, and 
our magazine and its illustrations will be under their surveillance; 
consequently the public can rely upon always having the newest 
designs and most approved styles, emanating from the acknow¬ 
ledged leaders of styles and fashion. 

We have many advantages for the truthful portrayal of 
fashions over all of our competitors ; their boasts to the contrary 
notwithstanding. But of this we will say no more, as we prefer 
to have the interested public judge for themselves and choose 
between us, feeling assured that our works and their superiority 
will speak for themselves. 













































































i6 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 5. 


THE 3 OR 4 BUTTON CUTAWAY. 


The most generally popular coat worn is the single-breasted 
cutaway. We give three representations—the three button cuta¬ 
way, the four button cutaway, and the one button sligthly cuta¬ 
way—which are the styles mostly selected by our dressy 


young men. 



This is partly owing to the fact that the three, four and five 
button cutaways have been so universally worn that every one 
has more or less of these styles and now desires a change. This 
style of garment is very becoming to a well proportioned figure, 
and we think is destined to grow in favor. 

The full length of the cutaway coat for ordinary sized men is 
about 34 inches —the extreme style would call for two inches less — 
the tendency is to cut all coats short. 

The loose fitting coats which have been so popular for years 
are disappearing, and now the close fitting coats are taking their 
place. This change of Style is denominated “English,” which is 
a popular error, as at present the English are cutting a loose and 
broader shoulder coat than has been their custom of late years. 


Draftiqg a 3 oi* 4 Button Cutaway. 


The drafting a 3 or 4 Button Cutaway is to be done the 
same as on Plate 2. Allowance for the front is as follows. 
Allow from 26 to A. inches 
“ “ F. “ O. 3 

“ “ 33 “ X. according to taste from 5 to 6 in. 

is a good medium to start the curve. 


We propose to make such subjects a feature of our works 
hereafter. Many attempts have been made before, but they were 
spasmodic and “died early;” but with us it shall be our aim to 
make our articles not only of practical use, but so highly enter¬ 
taining to all interested persons that they will eagerly anticipate 
each coming edition. 

While we claim for our present report superiority over all other 
reports issued this season, we frankly admit it does not reach that 
high standard of excellence which we are determined upon 
attaining. 

This is but the beginning of a work that will supply a void long 
felt; and by persistent energy, etc., it shall make its mark, and its 
competitors shall acknowledge its standing. 

Making these assurances in good faith, we would ask all who 
have been pleased with this, our first effort, to send in their names 
as subscribers at once. 


THE PECUNIARY YALUE OF TASTE. 


In general we have a very inadequate appreciation of the 
pecuniary value of taste. 

Taste measurably supplies a deficiency of means in almost 
everything. 

How often do we see a cheap but tastefully planned and ar¬ 
ranged cottage exelling in attractiveness the costly but ill-cont¬ 
rived dwelling! 

The difference between taste and the want of it is strikingly 
manifest in the laying out of grounds and planting trees and 
shrubs. 

It is also manifest in other ways. One person always ap¬ 
pears well dressed, another never; yet the one who is ill-dressed 
may pay his tailor twice as much a year as the other. 

One who does not understand the adaptation of style and 
colors may be loaded with costly garments and finery, and yet 
never appear well dressed. 

To some persons taste in everything seems natural, but in all 
it admits of cultivation. And the cultivation of one’s taste not only 
saves money, but it is a source of much satisfaction and hap¬ 
piness. 









































PLATE 5 























































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


18 

Plate 6. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COATS, OR 
PRINCE ALBERTS. 


For “general utility” there is no coat made which is so uni¬ 
versally worn by all classes at the double-breasted frock or Prince 
Albert coat. 

The fashionable “society man” and the hard working me¬ 
chanic alike call it into requisition upon all occasions when they 
desire to appear dressed. 

It can be worn on all occasions and for all purposes when 
the dress or “swallow-tailed” coat is not imperatively called for. 
Therefore, as a rule, every gentleman has one in his wardrobe 
or among his toggery. 

An effort has been made within the past two or three years 
to introduce in their stead the single-breasted frock coat, but it 
did not prove acceptable to the masses, hence the popularity of 
the “Prince Albert” has not been materially affected by this in¬ 
novation, and their usefulness is attested by their increasing 
demand made for them by all classes and professions in life. 



DRAFTING A D. B. PRINCE ALBERT GOAT. 


The drafting a D. B. Prince Albert coat. Make your points 
the same as on plate No. 2. 

Allow from 23 to 24 2/ inches 

“ _ “ 27 “ F 13/ “ 

“ “ A “ B 2/ “ 

“ “ 24 “ D 2/ 

“ “ F “ E 2/ “ 

The above allowance is for lapel cut off. If lapel left on 
front, make the allowance / inch less as follows from A. to B., 
from 24 to D. and from F. to E. 

_ 

— 

DRAFTING THE SKIRT. 


Allow from G. to H. 1 inch by cutting on cloth draw 
your skirt in the center between 29. and 30. 

I. Apply the total lengih of coat, now measure from H 

to I, and apply the same from the skirt seam to J. “.” 

the dots, presents how lapel is left on the front. 

_^k_ 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 


For some cause the habit of wearing very thick and heavy 
garments in winter is changing. 

Our fathers wore heavy beaver cloth garments, and over 
these were worn very heavy overcoats or wraps. In these days 
“things have changed since George the Third was King,” and 
our young men wear medium weight goods for both over and 
undej garments. 

Shoes and gaiters are worn instead of the boots worn by our 
ancestors. This change we heartily endorse, as we have a hor¬ 
ror of long boots, believing them detrimental to health, and would' 
in every case advise our friends against their use. 

One sign of the improved condition of our country and its 
present prosperity is that men are more generally ordering their 
clothing from the merchant tailors who a year or so ago were pur¬ 
chasing their garments ready made. 

The millions annually exported more than the imports for 
the whole country will continue to render money more abundant. 

No people dislike to wear ready made clothing more than 
Americans, and when they feel able to afford luxuries they at 
once order their garments from the tailor, notwithstanding the 
price is greater. 







































PLATE 6 












































































20 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



You will notice that the coat can be made with a shawl 
i collar, which is a great relief from the lapel dress coat of late 
I years. 

This style of collar has the effect of keeping the coat in better 
shape and position, and when properly formed gives a pleasing 
effect. It is not so wide as in former years, and appears to make 
a favorable impression upon all who use it. 


Plate 7. 

The Thi 11 Dress Coat. 


The dress suit is represented with great care, because full 
dress is becoming universally the style for balls, dinner parties, 
and select reunions, and the style presented is the very latest and 
most approved. 

Some' few persons prefer the ornamentation of serpentine 
braid upon the front of vest; others have black silk worked into 
various patterns, but, strictly speaking, this is not generally done; 
but the plain black cloth vest with two, and sometimes three but¬ 
tons, as usually worn. 


THE DRAFTING A FULL DRESS GOAT. 


Allow from 23 to 24 2 y 2 inches 
“ “ 27 “ F y 2 inch. 

“ for the lapel 2^ inches on top 

“ “ “ “ 2 y 2 “ “ breast 

“ “ “ “ iy “ “ bottom 

DRAFTING THE SKIRT. 


Allow from A to B 2)^ inches 
<< << B “ C “ “ 

“ “ 33 “34 “ 

“ “ D “ E the fifth part of the breast measure. Now draw 

a line from B. to 34 and from C to E. The collar to be cut ac¬ 
cording to roll of lapel. “. the dots present the 

dress coat with shawl collar, which the lapel must be cut straight 
on the top and the allowance is only 1 y inches on top. 



THE DIGNITY OF TAILORING. 


A great number of persons are disposed to deride the calling 
of a tailor, and many young men may be deterred from learning 
the trade on this account. If any such should read this article, 
let them remember that tailors stand about as high as a profession 
as any other, as proven by the difficulty of making a good tailor 
out of a lawyer, while many tailors have proved successful law¬ 
yers and surpassed as counsellors, and a few have made able 
statesmen. Of the latter, President Andrew Johnson, whatever 
may have been thought by some of his policy, it has been fre¬ 
quently acknowledged by many able men since his death, that 
his state papers are the most correct and able of any since the 
days of Thomas Jefferson. 

But, after all, who of modern tailors are justly entitled to the 
tribute paid to the memory of Pasquin, the Roman tailor, who 
was regarded as the wittiest man in Rome, and after his death, 
two thousand years ago, they raised a marble monument in Rome 
to his memory, which remains to this day in nearly the centre of 
the city? No one, unless it be Andrew Johnson. It is true that 
very many tailors have been Lord Mayors of London, and Baron 
Stults was not only an excellent tailor, but he improved the dyes 
and tints of cloths, * and invented the best factory for making su¬ 
perior cloths of any one in England. 

Nine journeymen tailors once made a very wealthy merchant, 
who had lettered on the panel of his coach, “Nine tailors made 
the man.” This was done in honor of the noble members of the 
craft who had made his fortune by donations to establish him in 
business. But by the conceptions of the following age, when 
literary scamps found it impossible to get credit with the tailor, 
they turned the compliment into blackguardism by rendering it 
thus : “It takes nine tailors to make a man.” Even Shakespeare 
was not free from the taint, as shown in some of his plays, in 
which he endeavored to disgrace the tailor. It is an honorable 
calling, and no one should blush with shame for being numbered 
among its members. 
















































































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELE-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 8. 

’The Sack Coats. 

C—" «-70 

The sack coat in four styles is the leading business and of¬ 
fice coat to be worn. 

The single-breasted sack coat closing four buttons; the single- 
breasted sack coat closing one button and slightly cutaway; the 
single-breasted sack coat closing one button and very much cut 
away; and the double-breasted sack coat comprise the variety 
offered for yeur consideration. 

The sack coats are cut extremely short, which is the most 
noticeable feature, The average length is about 28 or 29 inches 
for an ordinary sized man. 

The double-breasted sack, as represented is mostly intended 
to be worn during the early fall, when an overcoat is not needed 
This is much worn by gentlemen who are fond of pedestrian 
exercise— those who are fond of long walks to and from their 
offices, but as a rule it is considered fashionable 


The Drafting a Sack Coat. 


Make your points fore as to 27; see plate 2. 

A. 1 inch from point 13 to A. 

B. 1 inch from point 13 to B; now daaw a straight line 

from point A. to Bottom. 

C. 6 inches below waist line on line A, now draw a line 

by point B and C, this gives you the spring of Forepart, shape 

the side, body and back the same as shown on diagram. The 

pocket to be placed about 4 inches below the waist, now draw a 
straight line with the armhole and devide the width of the 
pocket. 

THE ALLOWANCE MADE FOR SACK COATS. 

ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY 

Allow i 3 f inches on top of lapel. 

STRAICHT CUT TO BUTTON 

Allow 1 y 2 inches on top and iy 2 inches on bottom. 

SLIGHTLY CUTAWAY TO BUTTON 

Allow 1 y 2 inches on top and 2 y 2 inches on bottom. 

DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT 

Allow 2 y 2 in. on top 3 in. on the Breast and 3^ in. on Bottom. 












































































































PLATE 8 














































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SE LF - R AL A N C1N O SYSTEM. 


Plate 9. sack 0VERC0ATS - 

Sack overcoats are of three styles—double breasted, single 
breasted, fly front, and single breasted with the long roll. 

The most generally worn of these is the single breasted, fly 
front overcoat. 

A few double breasted over sack coats are worn, and about 
the same proportion of single breasted with buttons through 
are used. 

As sack overcoats are more worn for dress coats by the mas¬ 
ses, they are not cut so long as formerly. This is in contra¬ 
distinction to the Ulster, which is used exclusively as a storm and 
business overcoat. 

This season’s style of sack overcoat is a radical change in the 
general appearance from last. It is cut quite short—for ordinary 
sizes, about 37 or 38 inches in length. 

They are quite narrow in the shoulder and fit more close to 
the body, and are buttoned well up on the chest; but it is not the 
intention to present too scant an appearance. 

As coats get shorter and sleeves smaller, shallow cuffs grow 
in favor for all kinds of coats ; the depth of cuffs vary from 2 to 3 
inches deep. 

Velvet collars are usually worn ; lapped seams are not so 
fashionable except for light kerseys. 

Dark grays, browns, and blues, are the colors most in favor. 
A few very dressy young men choose lighter shades and their gar¬ 
ments are generally faced with silk. 


Notice. — Measurements for overcoats must be taken over 
the body coat. 

IMPORTANCE FOR OVERCOATS. 

Overcoats can be cut from the same measurements taken 
over the body coat with the increasing according to the thickness 
of the cloth and lining, taking into consideration thickness of the 
coat which is to go over. However 2 y 2 inches of increase is a 
good medium on breast, waist and seat, \y 2 inch, on blade, y 2 
inch, on width of shoulder, 1 inch, on depth of armhole, y inch, 
on adjustment and y 2 inch, on front and back balance. 

THE DRAFTING AN OVERCOAT. 

Make your points the same as a sack coat. 

Allow from 23 to 24 2 ]/ 2 inches for spring goods 
“ “ “ “ “ 3 “ “ winter “ 

Allowance for single breasted. 

Allow from V to B 2 inches for spring goods 


“ 2 % 

“ winter 

c 2 y 2 

“ spring 

“ 3 

“ winter 

“ 3 

“ spring 

“3^ “ 

“ winter 


Allowance for double breasted. 

Allow from V to G 3^ inches 
“ “ 24 “ H 4 

“ “ D “ I 4 K “ 










































































































PLATE 9 








































































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


26 

Plate 10. 

The Shoulder Gape. 


But a few years the cape overcoat has been introduced, and 
it is now so popular amongst all classes and sexes that it is one of 
the indispensable articles of all outfits. 

They are in demand during the whole year. Travelers always 
are to be seen with them ; in fact every one who can afford such 
a luxury will not do without them. 

The styles are various as “the leaves of the forest,” but the 
more plain and simple they are modeled, the more general that 
style is used. 

They are made from all characters of goods—from the striped 
or checked cassimeres and plain beaver—the coat is cut quite 
long, for ordinary size about 50 or 52 inches in length, the width 
of back on bottom is cut about the fifth part of breast measure, if 
plaits is desired you may place them about 3^2 inches below the 
waist. The length of cape is cut for ordinary size, about 16 or 
17 inches in length. 


DRAFTING A CAPE. 


In cutting a cape for either men’s or boy’s overcoat Ulsters 
we must say this is the surest and most perfect way to cut the 
cape. The cape must be cut by the coat pattern which the cape 
is to go over it. A. and B. place on back and front with armhole 
shoulder points. Now devide from (back to front) 1 to 2 the 6th 
part of breast measure. Allow from 1 to 3 1 x / 2 inch, so to get the 
shoulder seam on the center ot shoulder. Allow from 2 to 4 the 
same as from 1 to 3. Allow from 4 to 5 i.inch. Collar band to 
be cut the length of neck and allow 1 inch, and \y 2 inch. wide. 

“.dots” presents how the cape is cut in 2 parts which 

gives a much better fit around the arms. 


FASHION. 


Notwithstanding the theory offered by somebody that man, 
the same as any other animal, would have been more comfort¬ 
able if he had remained in a state of nature and not sought out 
the invention of cloths, we still incline to the belief that clothes 
are a great comfort and blessing. 

It may be true that, as a rule, we dress with too many thick¬ 
ness of clothing, and the ancient method of dressing the feet with 
sandals may have been better than encasing them in boots, so 
far as producing more hardy and robust men. 

Sacred history shows that clothing was adopted when Adam 
left the Garden of Eden, but it was a very simple and slight struc¬ 
ture, to which one improvement after another has been added, 
until we finally have in a modified form the coat, vest, and panta¬ 
loons of to-day—to say nothing of the “stovepipe” hat and “air¬ 
tight understandings.” 

For the present improved and handsome attire we are in¬ 
debted to the active brain of the tailor, and of course the tailor 
should have the credit. 

If any one will revert to past ages and note the dress of our 
forefathers centuries ago he will be repaid for his research. 


.^k 


THE SOURCE OF KNOWLEDGE. 


We once heard a very eminent tailor—one admitted to be full 
of knowledge—admit that the most useful information possessed 
by him came from conservations with his journeymen, and that 
any suggestions they made he was willing to listen to, and in so 
.doing he was possessed of many bits of useful information 
which frequently proved valuable. 

We simply mention this to impress upon you that it is not 
well to always look “too high,” for, in so doing, we pass by un¬ 
noticed valuable gems lying at our feet. 

While this is true, it is equally true that we should not always 
look “too low,” for in so doing we fail to see the beauties above 
and around us. 

Be ever ready to accept information. Information is know¬ 
ledge, let it come from high or low, rich or poor. Despise it not, 
but welcomely receive it. 

_4k_ 

To Remove Paint Stains from Clothes.— Chloroform is an ex¬ 
cellent medium for the removal of the stains of paint from 
clothes, etc. It is found that portions of dry white paint, which 
resisted the action of ether, benzine and sulphide of carbon, are 
at once dissolved by chloroform. If the paint is fresh, turpentine 
or alcohol will remove it. 


























































































































28 D 1 TTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 11. 

THE MEASUREMENTS FOR VESTS. 

e__ ^ *> 

a - s J 

All vests, as a rule, are single breasted. 

The single breasted, no-collar vest is almost universally worn 
for business purposes. 

One reason for there being nothing new in vests is the habit 
of wearing all coats buttoned high, thus completely hiding from 
view the vest, except in cases where the cutaway coats are worn, 
then the bottoms of the vests only are seen. 

Excepting the dress vest, which is made with rolling collar 
and two or three buttons, there are mainly but two styles used : 
the single breasted notched collar and single breasted no collar 
vests. 

If measure taken for coat so the only extra measurements for 
vests is the opening and length and if you have to measure for 
vests only you must measure the same as coat as follows : 


Blade measure say 

22 inches 

Breast 

say 

3 6 

Depth 0 armhole “ 

12 “ 

Waist 

< < 

32 

Front balance “ 

20 “ 

Opening 

< < 

12 

Back “ “ 

l 9 % “ 

Total len 

gth“ 

2 5 

Adjustment “ 

1'A “ 





THE DRAFTING A VEST. 

Points i to 12 same as coat (see plate 2). 

13 From 9 to 13 the same as there is from line 1 to 12. 

14 Measure the distance from line 3 to 12, say 4^4 inches and 
add 1 inch, more to it, now apply 5in scale No. 3 from 
9 to 14 (on line 11). 

15 From line 2 to 15 the same as there is from 9 to 14. 

16 From point 13 the third part as there is from points 13 
to 12. 

17 From line 3 to 17 the third part as there is from line 3 
to 12. 

18 In the centre between line 3 and points 6. 

19 20, 21, and 22 same as coat (see plate 2). 

23 Breast measure 36 inches, deduct 1 inch, and apply 1714 
inch, from line 10 to 23. 

24 Allow 2 inch, for seams etc. from 23 to 24. 

25 Same as coat (see platen). 

26 For uniform, clergymen’s, etc., vest the third part from 
25 as there is from 25 to 24. 

27 Same as coat (see plate 2). 

A. Opening measure 12 inches. Apply from X. 12 inches with 
the deduction as there is from 9 to 14. 

B. Total length 25 inches. Apply from X. 25 inches with the de¬ 
duction as there is from 9 to 14. 

X. For vest without collar allow ^ inches from point 21 to X. 
Fig. 2 represents 3 styles of vests : 

The rolling collar. 

“ notch “ . 

“ full dress “ . 


testimonials. 


AN IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT. 

ACADEMY FOR THE ART OF CUTTING, DESIGNING, AND GRADING—SOME 
PARTICULARS REGARDING THE GENTLEMEN WHO 
CONDUCT IT. 

In consequence of the importance of proper tuition in the ar¬ 
tistic specialties of cutting, designing and grading, the Review 
takes pleasure in announcing that a regular Academy has been 
opened recently, which is the most perfect institution of the kind 
in America. It is conducted by Messrs. Dittmar & Sheifer, com¬ 
posed of Mr. Louis Dittmar and Noah S. Sheifer. They have 
rented the spacious and elegant second and third floors of the 
building, No. 758 Broadway—adjoining liegeman’s well-known 
drug store, corner ot 8th street. The academy will prove the 
crowning glory of the Tailors’ and Cutters’ Exchange. Being vir¬ 
tually successors of Genio C. Scott—whose name was known all 
over the world—Messrs. Dittmar & Sheifer, by reason of their un¬ 
rivalled artistic talent, take the first rank for the possession of 
valuable information in their respective specialties, with the very 
rare ability to completely and promptly impart the same ! They 
are no “bed room” teachers with limited capacity, but, at their 
magnificent new Academy, have ample facilities for imparting 
reliable and thorough instruction. The systems taught have re¬ 
ceived unqualified endorsement as correct in theory and reliable 
in practice. Further information, as to terms and details, will be 
furnished on application at the Academy. 

But it may be added that both members ot the firm are without 
competition in their respective specialties ! The name of Louis 
Dittmar is widely known, on account of his connection with the 
Mirror 0/Fashions, founded in 1840, by Genio C. Scott—whom 
Mr. Dittmar, directly succeeded—and also as being the originator 
of “ Dittmar s Self-balancing System of Drafting.” Born at Bad 
Homburg, by Frankfort on the Main, Germany, he resided there 
until 17 years of age, and has been in the tailoring busines since 
his fourteenth year. His experience of late - at 732 Broadway - 
has given ample evidence that in everything appertaining to ar¬ 
tistic cutting, he is simply super-eminent. The same is true of 
Prof. Noah S. Sheifer, as a designer. He was formerly at No. 19 
Fast 14th street, and from his earliest days has had a natural talent 
for excelling in all matters appertaining to artistic conception in 
designing. Mr. Muir, the well-known and respected gentleman 
associated with Messrs Dittmar & Sheifer, is from Scotland—the 
“land o’cakes." He has been in America since 1833, and is 
highly esteemed for his efficiency and personal worth in the 
tailoring trade. 

This Academy will doubtless flourish like a “green bay tree,” 
because it rests on the solid foundation of real and substantial 
merit, and has everything to commend it to the public favor.— 
New York Review. 

Parents, you are welcome to visit our extensive Academy 
and satisfy yourselves as to the advantages derived by sending 
your children to be educated in our systems of cutting, grading, 
and designing. By such a profession your children will be the 
mainstay of your old age. We guarantee to teach them all 
branches thoroughly to the end, that when they shall have re¬ 
ceived their diplomas, they may fill the finest positions among the 
cutting profession. 

































SLL.2. . 



PLATE 




























































































30 DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S 


Plate 12. Fig. 1. 

This diagram presents a double-breasted vest. 

A. Apply opening measure. 

B. 4 inches below opening. 

C. Allow 3 inches from B. to C. 

-- 

Plate 12- Fig- 2. 

PANTALOONS. 


In all garments designed and cut by merchant tailors, it is 
the intention and desire to have as distinctive a style from ready¬ 
made clothing as possible. 

The close and ready imitation of the clothiers in their gar¬ 
ments is the cause of the frequent changes on the part of the 
tailor. 

In pantaloons the fashionable are wearing a much closer fit¬ 
ting garment than last season, but not yet has it arrived at the 
“skin fit " of former years, but the tendency is that way inclined. 
The fashionable size is from 17 to 19 inches knee ; same for bot¬ 
tom, with a small spring. 

As coats incline to get shorter, pantaloons get tighter and 
closer fitting. Loose pantaloons and short coats do not harmonize 
well together. 

Pantaloons will be close-fitting in body, seat, and legs, hol¬ 
lowed slightly at knee, and small spring at bottom, with a general 
tendency to cut them smaller as the season advances. 

Measuring for pants, as a rule lor practical cutters, they al¬ 
ways have a platform for the customer for their measurirg, be¬ 
cause it looks very bad tor a cutter to lay with his knee on the 
floor for measuring his customer. 

-- 

THE MEASUREMENTS. 

1 Length of knee from the hip to knee, say 23 inches. 

2 Length of side from the hip STOnr blstttefif shouldeP, say 
41 inches. 

3 Inside length from fork down to the heel, say 31 inches. 

4 Waist—around the waist on pants, say 31 inches. 

5 Hip—around the largest part of the seat, say 37 inches. 

6 Knee—around the knee according to style or taste, say 17 
inches. 

7 Bottom—around the bottom according to style or taste, 
say i 7}4 inches. 

MEASURE. 


23 - 41 - 31 - 31 - 37 - 17 - 17J* 


SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


“ DECOY DUCKS.” 


“ Decoy ducks ” are very properly described by an observing 
friend as “the prominent persons whose names appear as patrons, 
trustees, etc.,’’ of the various weak institutions that are begging for 
public consideration. 

Very frequently this trick and device is resorted to by un¬ 
scrupulous persons to foist upon the uninitiated and unsuspecting 
public, bogus institutions , and not unfrequently the names of promi¬ 
nent individuals are used without their knowledge or consent. 
As an illustration of this fact we refer you to the case of the bogus 
Medical Institute of Philadelphia, which was publicly exposed after 
existing for years upon the moral support given it by the illegal 
use of the names of popular men throughout the country. But in 
time all this rascality is exposed and the institutions resorting to 
such mean expedients are landed upon the rocks of adversity 
hopeless wrecks. 

Some of these “decoy ducks - ' are of solid wood—even to the 
head, while others extremely hollow are of brass, but one kind is 
just as mischievous as the other, and both need watching at this 
time, especially, for the prosperous season has brought out a 
great many hunters after snug surpluses that numerous people 
have begun to accumulate. “A wink is as good as a nod to a 
blind horse.” To make the application of the above remarks more 
plain and clear to the hasty reader we would impress upon his mind 
that not all the names printed and used by certain persons are 
used with the consent of the individuals, but they are illegally used 
and purposely published as decoys to deceive the unwary public. 
Their object is like that of the spider to the fly—they aim to get 
you in .their clutches, and for this purpose flamingly publish the 
names of prominent individuals as trustees, etc., and use these 
names as “ decoy ducks. ” 

We would advise you to give them “a wide berth,” for so 
sure as you allow them to fasten their fangs upon you, you are a 
victim to their unscrupulous thirst for money, and they will fleece 
you without mercy. Listen not to their siren songs, but if you 
should be lulled by their cadence for a moment, shake off your 
ethargy and remember the warnings we have given you. 

All interested persons who desire to know “the bone and 
sinew of the Tailors - and Cutters - Exchange can have full par¬ 
ticulars upon application at our office. But we publish no names— 
We use no “ Decoy Ducks.” 



Cautions about Benzine. —From the facility with which it re¬ 
moves grease spots from fabrics, this substance has come to be 
regarded almost as a household indispensable. But few persons, 
however, realize the explosive character of benzine or the 
dangers attending the careless handling of the liquid. Being 
one of the most volatile and inflammable products resulting from 
the distillation of petroleum, it vaporizes with great rapidity, so 
that the contents of a 4 ounce vial, if overturned, would render 
the air of a moderate sized room highly explosive. The greatest 
care should be exercised in handling this substance in proximity 
to fire, and it is important to remember that the vapor escaping 
from an uncorked bottle will cause a flame to leap over a space 
of several feet. 






























PLATE 






















































































































SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


32 DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S 

Plate 13. 

e;rr^. 

-c\(5jV- 

FIG. 1. —DRAFTING OF THE FORE PART OF PAN IS. 

1 Draw line 1. 

2 Square line 2 by line 1. 

3 Length of knee, 23 inches. Apply 23 from 2 to 3. 

4 Total length of pants, 41 inches. Apply 41 from 2 to 4- 

5 Inside length, 31 inches Apply 31 from 4 to 5. 

6 Seat measure, 37 inches. Take the fourth part of 37 from 

line 1 to 6 (on line) 5. 

7 From 6 to 7 the fourth part as it is from line 1 to 6 ; 5^ and 
2 /l to be divided in three equal parts between 6 and 7. Central 
line between line 1 and point 7. 

8 The eighth part of the waist measure from C. to 8. 

9 The fourth part of waist measure from 8 to 9. 

10 The fourth part of knee measure from C. to 10 (on line 

3 )- 

11 The half of knee measure from 10 to 11 (on line 3.) 

12 3^ to 3^ inches from C. to 12. 

13 From C. to 13 the same as there is from C. to 12. 

FIG. 2.—DRAFTING THE BACK PART. 


14 From line 2 to 14 the same as there is from central line 
to 6 . 

15 From 5 to 15, the third part as there is from central line 
to 6. 

16 The fourth part of waist measure from 14 (on line 2). 

17 Allow two inches trom 16 to 17 (on line 2). 

18 From 7 to 18 the half as there is from 6 to 7. 

19 Bottom measure, 17^ inches. Apply half of measure, 
which is 8^ inches, from 13 to 19, with an allowance of ]/ 2 
inch. 

20 From 12 to 20 the same as there is from 13 to 19. 


To Remove Grease from Cloth. —Take one quart lime ; add 
thereto as much water as will dissolve the lime and leave about 
one quart clear water after it has been stirred and settled. Let it 
stand about two hours and then pour off the clear liquid into 
another vessel. Now add to it half an ounce of pearlash ; stir it 
well, and, when settled, bottle it for use. This liquor is to be 
diluted with water to suit the strength or delicacy of the color of 
the cloth. It is appl ed with a piece of coarse sponge, rubbing 
out the grease and applying clear water afterwards. This is one 
of the best receipts known for the extraction- of grease, but it is 
destructive to certain vegetable colors. 


OUR SYSTEM OF SHIRT CUTTING. 


Each year has produced improved systems for cutting shirts, 
and every year there is a growing demand for shirt- cutters of talent, 
whom large salaries are paid ; in fact, the shirt-cutter's pay rivals 
of that of the tailors’s, and as this demand increases for expert shirt- 
cutters. it is well for young men to give it their attention. 

One of the sim lest, most perfect, and reliable shirt systems 
we have is one recently invented by Messrs. Dittmar & Sheifer, of 
the Tailors’ and Cutters’ Exchange, which possesses real merit. 
A gentleman, recognized as one of the best shirt-cutters in this 
country, after witnessing the swiftness with which it performed 
its duty, acknowledged that it surpassed anything in its line he 
had ever examined, and, to test its correctness, drafted a pattern 
by his method, which took exactly twice as much time as that oc¬ 
cupied by us in drafting one by our system, and, upon laying 
these patterns upon each other, it was found, to the surprise of all 
present, that they corresponded in every part ; in fact, so near 
alike were they that any person Avould have believed that one pat¬ 
tern was copied trom the other. 

This business of shirt-cutting is assuming vast proportions, 
and any one not familiar with the subject, and who has given the 
subject no thought, would be surprised to realize the extent of 
talent, capital, etc., invested. 

We are prepared to teach our system of shirt-cutting to any 
person desirous of learning, or we will sell drafts of it for self- 
instruction. 

’■- 


To Remove Acid Stains from Garments. —Chloroform will 
restore the color of garments where the same has been destroyed 
by acids. 

To Restore Colors that Have Been Injured By the Use oa 
Re-Agents.— The colors of cloths are often injured by the re¬ 
agents made use of in order to restore them effectively. When 
such is the case we must not only understand the geuerel princi¬ 
ples of the art of dyeing, but the nature and composition • of the 
particular die that was originally employed for dyeing the cloth 
whose color is to be restored, and thus enabled to modify the 
means accordingly. Thus, when, after using an alkali to remove 
an acid spot upon brown, violet, or blue cloth, etc., there re¬ 
mains a yellow spot, the original color is again produced by 
means of a solution of tin. A solution of the sulphate of iron 
restores the color to those brown cloths which have been dyed 
with galls. Acids give to yellow cloths which have been 
rendered dull or brown by alkalies their original brightness. 
When black cloths dyed with logwood have any reddish spots 
occasioned by acids, alkalies turn such spots to a yellow color, 
and a little of the astringent principle makes them black again. 
A solution of one part of indigo in four parts of sulphuric acid, 
properly diluted with water, may be successfully employed to 
restore a faded blue color upon wool or cotton. Red or scarlet 
colors may be restored dy means of cochineal and a solution of 
muriate of tin, etc. 













































PLATE 13 



i—- 

































































34 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 14. 

On this plate we represent a draft of Riding Pants. 

In drafting the above make your point the same as on plate 
13, with the exceptions as follows : 

Allow from point 14 to A. 2 inches. 

“ “ “ 7 “ 18 the same as from 6 to 7. 

“ “ “ 5 “ 15 inch. 

Shape the bottom of pants same as shown on diagram. 

.This represents the Knickerbocker pants, which 

is to be cut much closer around the thigh. 



A WORD TO CUTTERS AND TAILORS. 


Life indeed is short, and the few years we are permitted to 
live should not be one-sided—in a word, we should live in a mea¬ 
sure for others as well as for ourselves. This should be the aim 
and life-work of a good tailor or cutter. The tailor should not 
wait until after years on the bench have passed to begin to learn 
cutting, for then, constantly in a cramped position when his limbs 
are supple, he will find them, in old age, shaky and so enfeebled 
as to be not able to stand for any given length of time. A young 
man begins and learns cutting thoroughly, and, thereafter all other 
branches of the profession become easy and pleasurable tasks. 
One of the best cutters and tailors in the profession came to our 
Academy the other day and applied for a situation, which was 
speedily obtained for him in one of the leading customs establish¬ 
ments in the city, and you can imagine our surprise when he again 
visited us, in a few days, saying that he was obliged to leave his 
situation owing to the feebleness of his legs ; that it was physically 
impossible for him to stand any considerable length of time. 
This is an illustration which should convey its lesson to every 
cutter especially, for, this man, after many years an expert tailor, 
became, in the same degree, a cutter, but in his old days was 
practically useless as such. So begin cutting when young and 
you will have in your old age a profession which will prove a 
blessing to yourself especially, and to those who may have to de¬ 
pend upon you. Now your especial attention is called to the fact 
that it is not by any means an edifying sight to see a cutter on his 
knees measuring a customer for pantaloons, and we make it an 
invariable rule to instil it into the minds of students never to kneel 
but in every instance, if they have not a box in the store in which 
they may be employed, to go to the nearest grocery and procure 
a common soap box and let their customers stand thereon, and 
thus they will add a little ray of lustre to the profession, and, 
among other things, it will materially help them to obtain a cor¬ 
rect measure 


“THE BOY IS FATHER TO THE MAN.” 


In answer to an advertisement nearly fifty boys presented 
themselves—one was selected and the others dismissed. 

“I should like to know,” said a friend, “on what grounds you 
selected that boy as he had no recommendation.” 

The gentleman replied: “You are mistaken! He has a great 
many recommendations. He wiped his feet when he entered and 
closed the door after him, showing he was careful. He gave his 
seat immediately to that old lame man showing he was thought¬ 
ful. He took off his hat when he first came in and answered my 
questions promptly; a proof that he is gentlemanly. He picked 
up the book, which I have purposely laid on the floor and placed 
it upon the table, and he waited quietly for his turn instead of 
pushing and crowding, and this showed him to be honorable and 
orderly. When I talked to him I noticed his clothes were brushed, 
his hair in order; when he wrote his name I observed his finger 
nails were clean. Don’t you call these things recommendations? 
I do; and I would give more for what I can tell about a boy by 
using my eyes ten minutes than for all the letters of recommenda- 
tion he can bring me.” 

There is a moral in this which it would be well for Cutters to 
apply to themselves. Too frequently their dress department and 
personal habits are such as to decide employers at once not to en¬ 
gage the applicants,' althoug their abilities as cutters are beyond 
question. 

These little details cannot be ignored if you wish to succeed 
in your cutting as cutters, for we see around us men of excellent 
abilities as cutters, but whose neglect of certain little necessaries 
are such as to cause them to be unsatisfactory and distasteful to 
employers and consequently they are forever in search of em¬ 
ployment. 


Methods of Removing Various Stains. —Fruit-stains, wine stains 
and those made by colored vegetable juices are often nearly in¬ 
delible and require various treatment, Thorough rubbing with 
soap and soft water ; repeated dipping in sour butter-milk and 
drying in the sun ; rubbing on a thick mixture of starch and cold 
water and exposing long to sun and air are among the expedients 
resorted to. Sulphurous acid is often employed to bleach out 
colors. It may be generated at the moment of using by burning 
a small piece of sulphur in the air under the wide end of a small 
paper funnel, whose upper orifice is applied near the cloth. 
Coffee and chocolate stains require careful soaping and washing 
with water at 1 20°, followed by sulphuration. 






































PLATE 



















































3 6 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 15. 



¥he Reglan, or Inverness. 


The cape overcoat has been introduced but a few years. 

On this plate is presented the Reglan or Inverness. 

This is still one of the most popular garments for travellers 
and for full dress, being useful either as a wrap or extra. They 
are made from all kinds of goods either fancy or plain beaver as 
the season requires. 


DRAFTING THE REGLAN OR INVERNESS. 


A. Allow 1^2 inches from point 13 to A. 

B. From line 1 to B one inch more then there is from 1 to A. 

C. Allow 1 inch from 21 to C. 

D. Length of cape 30 inches (length of cape to be taken same as 
sleeve). Now take off measure from 1 to o and apply the 
same to' point C. Now take 30 inches to line D, this gives 
you the length of cape. 

Sweep from line D and on points C on E. 

Measure the distance from line O (on back) to line D, and 

apply the same from C to F, this gives you the length of side 
cape. Now shape the bottom from F to D. 

Front of coat to be cut the same as overcoat if single or 
double breasted, but 3 inches wider at the bottom. 


E. 

F. 


To Bleach Cotton Pure W hite.— Boil for three hours in water 
containing one gill to the gallon of either caustic potassa or 
caustic soda; wash well from the lye, then lay the yarn or fabric 
to steep tor four or five hours in cold water containing one pint 
of bleaching livuor to the gallon ; then lift out and steep for an 
hour in a sour of one glassful of sulphuric acid to the gallon of 
water ; lift and wash well, then boil for two hours in a caustic lye 
half the strength of the first ; wash from this and steep again for 
four hours in the bleaching liquor ; wash from this and steep 
again for one hour in a clean sour, made in the same manner as 
the first wash well from this and dry. A little smalt blue is put 
into the last washing water to clear the white. 

Waterproof Porous Cloth. —A porous waterproof cloth is the 
best for outer garments during wet weather for those whose 
duties or labor causes them to perspire freely. The best way 
for preparing such cloth is by the process adopted for the tunics 
of the French soldiers during the Crimean war. It is as follows : 
lake 2^ pounds alum and dissolve in 10 gallons boiling water ; 
then in a separate vessel dissolve the same quantity sugar of lead 
in 10 gallons of water and mix the two solutions. The cloth is 
now well handled in this liquid until every pait of it is penetrated ; 
then it is squeezed and dried in the air or in a warm apartment; 
then washed in cold water and dried again, when it is fit for use. 
If necessary, the cloth may be dipped in the liquor and dried 
twice before being washed. The liquor appears curdled when 
the alum and lead solutions are mixed together. This is the 
result of double decomposition, the sulphate of lead, which is an 
insoluble salt, being formed. The sulphate of lead is taken up in 
the pores of the cloth and it is unaffected by rains or moisture, 
and yet it does not render the cloth air-tight. Such cloth is also 
partially non-inflammable. 





















































PLATE 15 


) ffl 


/ 1 

/ \ 

' 1 ^**V ^ 


1 w\ 










































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


On this plate we represent a Draft of a Livery over¬ 


coat. 


DRAFTING THE LIVERY. 


Make your point the same as on plate 2. Make the width of 
back 2^ inches. 


23 to 

24 

3 

A “ 

B 

3 ^ 

24 “ 

C 

4 

D “ 

E 

3 

F “ 

G 

1 y* 


“ on skirt. 

Left side of coat on neck gordige to be cut inch lower as it 
is to be buttoned up. Collar to be shaped according to diagram. 
Cape to be cut the same as on plate 10. 


Plate 16. 

¥he livery (Svereoat. 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S Self Balancing System of Cut¬ 


ting Gentlemen’s k Boys’ Garments.$15.00 

DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S Self Balancing System of Cut¬ 
ting Ladies & Childrens Garments. 15.00 

DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S System for Grading Children’s, 

Boys’, Youth’s and Men’s Garments. 10.00 

DITTMAR k SHEIFER'S Complete Measurements for 

the Self Balancing System. 3.00 

DITTMAR k SHEIFER’S Proportionate Measurements 
for Children’s, Misses’ k Ladies Garments in a 

book form. 10.00 

DITTMAR k SCHEIFER’S Proportionate k Extra Size 
Measurements for Children’s, Boys’, Youth’s and 

Men’s Garments. 5.00 

DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S System of Shirt Cutting. 10.00 

PHYLIKY’S System of Cutting, improved by L. Dittmar . . 10.00 
GENIO C. SCOTT’S Cutters Guide, consisting of two vol. 5.00 
GENIO C. SCOTT’S Inch Scales. 2.00 


Address all orders to 

DITTMAR & SCHEIFER, 

758 Broadway, N. Y. 

ALL COMMUNICATIONS WILL RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION. 

Correspondents wishing a Written Answer must send a Postage Stamp, 


WORKS ON CUTTING. 

































































PLATE (6 











































































43 


DITTMAR cSi SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 17. 


¥he Uniform Goat, 




On this plate we represent a Draft of a Uniform coat. 
Allow from 23 to 24 3 inches 
“ for Front inches 
“ from F to G 2 inches for skirt. 

Extra allowance to be made for botton stand. 






Cl niforrr) oj tfje / l rrny o 
Cl n: led Stales. 


ARTI6LE LXXXYI— Regulations of i88i, 
UNIFORM, DRESS AND HORSE FURNITURE. 

(G. O. No. 9?, 1879.) 


COATS. 


Full Dress for Officers. 

2587. All officers shall wear a double-breasted frock coat 
of dark blue cloth, the skirt to extend from one-half to three- 
fourths the distance from the hip-joint to the bend of the knee. 

2588. For a General .—Two rows of buttons on the breast, 
twelve in each row; placed by fours ; the distance between each 
row five and one-half inches at top and three and one-half inches 
at bottom ; standing collar, not less than one nor more than two 
inches in height, to hook in front at the bottom and slope thence 
up and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side, 
corners rounded ; cuffs three inches deep, to go around the 
sleeves parallel with the lower edge, and with three small 
buttons at the under seam ; pockets in the folds of the skirt, with 
two buttons at the hip and one at the lower end of each side 
edge, making four buttons on the back and skirt of the coat ; 
collar and cuffs to be of dark blue velvet; lining of the coat 
black. 

2589. For a Lieutenant Gen .—The same as for a General, 
except that there will be ten buttons in each row, on the breast, 
the upper and lower groups by threes, and the middle groups by 
fours. 

2590. For a Major Gen .—The same as for a General, 
except that there will be nine buttons in each row, on the 
breast, placed by threes. 

2591. For a Brigadier Gen .—The same as for a General, 
except that there will be eight buttons in each row, on the 
breast, placed by pairs. 


2592. For a Colonel, Lieutenant Colonel and Major. —The same 
as for a General, except that there will be nine buttons in each 
row, on the breast, placed at equal distances ; collars and cuffs 
of the same color and material as the coat. Judge Advocates 
of the Army and Professors of the Military Academy are author¬ 
ized to wear, when on duty, the plain dark blue body-coat pre¬ 
scribed in paragraph 2599 ; the buttons on the coat to be the 
same as for the general staff.— \G. O. 76, 1879; G. O. 9, 1882]. 

2593. For a Captain , 1 st Lieutenant, 2d Lieutenant, and Ad¬ 
ditional Second Lieutenant. —The same as for a Colonel, except 
that there will be seven buttons in each row, on the breast. 

2594. For all Storekeepers. —The same as prescribed for offi¬ 
cers of the same rank in the Quartermaster’s, Medical, and Ord¬ 
nance Departments.— [G. O. 23, 1878.] 

2595. This coat shall be worn on all dress occasions, such 
as reviews, inspections, dress parades, guards, and courts-mar¬ 
tial. It will be habitually worn at battalion drills, except in hot 
weather, or when otherwise directed by the commanding officer. 
It may also be worn, with shoulder-straps, when not on armed 
duty.—[G. O. 67, 1873.] 

Undress for Officers 

2596. For fatigues, marches, squad and company drills, and 
other drills when authorized by the commanding officer, and for or¬ 
dinary wear. —A sack coat of dark blue cloth or serge; falling col¬ 
lar, single-breasted, with five buttons in front, same as those worn 
on the dress coat. The skirt to extend from one-third to two- 
thirds the distance from the hip-joint to the bend of the knee. 
The shoulder-straps will always be worn with this coat.—[ G. O. 
96, 1875.] 

2597. For all Storekeepers. —Of pattern above described. 

2598. For a Chaplain.— Plain black frock coat, with standing 
collar; one row of nine black buttons on the breast, with “her¬ 
ring-bone" of black braid around the buttons and button-holes. 

2599. Officers are permitted to wear a plain dark blue body- 
coat, with the button designatingtheir respective corps, regiments, 
or departments, without any other mark or ornament upon it. 
This coat, however, is not to be considered as a dress for any 
military purpose.— [G. O. 96, 1875.] 

Signal Service. 

2600. For the Chief Signal Officer. —The same uniform as for 


ftj<£ 


a Brigadier General. 

2601. For other Officers of the Signal Corps .—Same as that 
prescribed for the Adjutant General’s Department, without the ai- 
guillette, the usual distinction being made for the grades.— [G. O. 
86, 1878.] 

BUTTONS. 

2602. For General Officers and Officers of the General Staff .— 

Gilt, convex, with spread eagle and stars, and plain border; large 
size, seven-eighths of an inch in exterior diameter; small size, 
one-half inch.— [Regs. 1863, 1488.] 

2603. For Officers of the Corps of Engineers. —Gilt, nine-tenths 

of an inch in exterior diameter, slightly convex; a raised bright 
rim, one-thirtieth of an inch wide; device, an eagle holding in his 
beak a scroll, with the word “Essay ons,” a bastion with embras¬ 
ures in the distance surrounded by water, with a rising sun—the 
figures to be of dead gold upon a bright field. Small buttons of 
the same form and device, and fifty-five hundredths of an inch in 
exterior diameter.— [Regs. 1863, 1489.] 


Continued on Page 42. 



































PLATE 17 





































































42 DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 18 . 

The lull Dress Iniform. 


On this plate we represent a Draft of a full Dress Uniform. 


DRAFTING THE SKIRT. 
Allow from A to B 2V 2 inches 



UNIFORM OF THE ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES. 


Continued from page 40. 

2604. For Officers of the Ordnance Department. —Gilt, convex, 
plain border, cross cannon and bomb-shell, with a circular scroll 
over and across the cannon, containing the words “Ordnance 
Corps”; large size, seven-eighths of an inch in exterior diameter; 
small size, one-half inch.-— [Regs. 1863, 1491.] 

2605 For Officers of Artillery, Infantry and Cavalry .— Gilt, 
convex; device, a spread eagle with the letter A, for Artillery—I, 
for Infantry—C, for Cavalry, on the shield; large size, seven- 
eighths of an inch in exterior diameter; small size, one-half inch, 
— [Regs. 1863, 1492.] 

2606. Aides-de-Camp may wear the button of the General 
Staff, or of their regiment or corps, at their option. — [Regs. 1863, 
1 1493 -] 

2607. For Storekeepers .—-General Staff button. 


CRAVATS. 

2608. For all Officers. —Black; the tie not to be visible at the 
opening of the collar. 


VEST'S. 

2609. Officers when not on duty are permitted to wear a buff, 
white or blue vest, with the small button prescribed for them. 


TROUSERS. 

2610. For General Officers, Officers of the General Staff, and 
Staff Corps .—Dark blue cloth, plain, without stripe, welt or cord. 

2611. For all Regimental Officers of Cavalry, Artillery, and 
Infantry .—Light blue cloth, same shade of color as prescribed for 
enlisted men, with stripe one and one-half inches wide, welted at 
the edges; color, that of facings of their respective arms, except 
Infantry, which will be dark blue. 

2612. Storekeepers .—Dark blue cloth, without stripe, welt 
or cord. 

2613. For Chaplains .—Plain black, with black cord on the 
outer seam. — [G. O. 10, 1880.] 

2614. Whenever, in extreme southern latitudes, white trous¬ 
ers are worn by enlisted men, the officers must in like manner 
wear them— [G. O. 76, 1880.] 


HAT OR HELMET (FULL DRESS). 

2615. For General Officers. Officers of the General Staff, and 
Staff Corps, except the Signal Corps. —Chapeau according to pattern, 
to be worn with the front peak turned slightly to the left, showing 
the gilt ornaments upon the right side.— [G. O. 67, 1873.] 

2616. Helmets for Field Officers. —According to the pattern on 
file in the office of the Quartermaster General. Body: of cork or 
other suitable material covered with black cloth, or of black felt, 
at the option of the wearer. Trimmings: cords and tassels, top 
piece and plume-socket, chain chin-strap and hooks, eagle with 
motto, crossed cannon, rifles, or sabres, all gilt, with the number 
of the regiment on the shield in white; plume of buffalo-hair, 
white for Infantry, yellow for Cavalry, and red for Artillery. 

2617. Helmets for other Mounted Officers, and Officers of Signal 
Corps. —Same as above, except that color of plume shall be orange 
for Signal Corps. 

2618. Helmets for oilier Officers of Foot Troops —Same as 
above, except that the Trimmings are as follows: Top piece, spike, 
chain chin-strap with hooks and side buttons, eagle with motto, 
csossed rifles or cannon, all gilt, with the number of the regiment 
on the shield in white. 

2619. Officers' Summer Helmets. —Body: of cork as per pat¬ 
tern in the office of the Quartermaster General, covered with white 
facing cloth; top piece, spike, chain chin strap, and hooks, all 
gilt. — [G. O. 4, 1881.] 

2620. The helmet cords will be attached to the left side of 
the helmet and come down to the left shoulder, where they are 
held together by a slide; one cord then passes to the front and the 
other to the rear of the neck, crossing upon the right shoulder 
and passing separately around to the front and rear of the right 
arm, where they are again united and held together by a slide 
under the arm; the united cords then cross the breast and are 
looped up to the upper button on the left side of the coat.— [G. O. 

67, 1 873-1 


PLUMES FOR OFFICERS. 

2621. For General-in-Chief .—Three black ostrich feathers. 

2622. For other General Officers, for Officers of the General 
Staff, and Staff Corps, except the Signal Corps .—Two black ostrich 
feathers. 


EORAGE CAP. 

2623. For General Officers .—Of dark blue cloth, chasseurpat- 
tern, with black velvet band and badge in front. 

2624. For all other Commissioned Officers .—Of dark blue cloth, 
chasseur pattern, with badge of corps or regiment in front, and 
top of badge to be even with top of cap. 


FORAGE CAP BADGES. 

2625. For General Officers .—A gold embroidered wreath on 
dark blue cloth ground, encircling the letters <9. in silver, old 
English characters. 

2626. For Officers of the Adjutant General's Department .—A 
solid shield of silver bearing thirteen stars, according to pattern 
in the Adjutant General's Office. — [(A O. 107, 1872, G. O. 67, 

1873-] 

2627. For Officers of Engineers .—A gold embroidered wreath 
of laurel and palm encircling a silver-turretted castle on dark blue 
cloth ground. 


Continued on page 44. 





























PLATE 18 




































































































44 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 19. 

¥he Mat Han’s Measure. 


On this plate we represent a draft of a fat man’s coat. 


MEASUREMENTS. 


30 

5i 


11 

53 


53 l A 


22 y 2 

33 


2 3 

~ 


13 

36 


In measuring a coat or vest by the “Self-Balancing System” 
for either short, fat, upright, stooping, high shoulders, low shoul¬ 
ders, etc., depends greatly on the balance which the measurement 
can ascertain. However, it must not be lost sight of that the 
human body is not a statue, and that the greatest care to seize 
the opportunity of having it on its natural position is of the greatest 
importance. It is not unusual that persons having a stooping at¬ 
titude, erect themselves when they are to be measured. Take 
notice of it, and add, say ]/j or ffz inch on the back balance ac¬ 
cording to your remark on his forced attitude, and all these points 
will locate themselves. 

In drafting for either the above, make your points the same 
as on Plate No. 2 by measurements as it calls for. Do not make 
any extra allowances, as the ‘‘Self-Balancing System ” will bring 
its points out according to the measurements, and you will find 
it correct in all its constructions. 


UNIFORM OF THE ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES. 

Continued from Page 42. 

2628. For Officers of Ordnance. —A gold embroidered shell 
and flame on dark blue cloth ground. 

2629. For Officers of the Signal Corps. —According to the pat¬ 
tern deposited in the office of the Chief Signal Officer.—[ G. O. 
86, 1878.] 

2630. For all other Staff Officers. —Same as for General Officers. 

2631. For Officers of Cavalry. —Two gold embroidered sabres, 
crossed, edges upward, on dark blue cloth ground, with the num¬ 
ber of the regiment in silver in the upper angle. 

2632. For Officers of Artillery. —Two gold embroidered can¬ 
nons, crossed, on dark blue cloth ground, with the number of the 
regiment in silver at the intersection of the cross-cannon. 

2633. For Officers of Infantry. —Two gold embroidered rifles 
without bayonets, barrels upwards, on dark blue cloth ground, 
with the number of the regiment in silver in the upper angle, 
according to pattern in Quartermaster General’s Office.— [G. O. 
96, 1875.] 

FATIGUE HAT. 

2634. For all Officers. —Of black felt, according to pattern, to 
be worn in garrison only on fatigue duty; and on marches and 
campaigns.—[G. O. 92, 1872; G. O. 67, 1873.] 

2635. Whenever, in extreme southern latitudes, straw hats 
are worn by enlisted men, the officers must in like manner wear 
them,—[G. O. 76, 1879.] 


EPAULETTES. 

2636. For the General of the Army. —Of gold, with solid cres¬ 
cent; device—two silver embroidered stars, with five rays each, 
one and one-half inches in diameter, and the “Arms of the United 
States” embroidered in gold placed between them. 

2637. For a Lieutenant General. —Of gold, with solid crescent; 
device—three silver embroidered stars of five rays each, respect¬ 
ively, one and one-half, one and one-quarter, and one and one- 
eighth inches in diameter. The largest placed in the center of 
the crescent; the others, placed longitudinally on the strap and 
equidistant, ranging in order of size from the crescent. 

2638. For a Major General. —Same as for Lieutenant General, 
omitting smallest star, and the smaller of the two remaining stars 
placed in the center of the strap. 

2639. For a Brigadier General. —Same as for Lieutenant Gen¬ 
eral, omitting all but the largest star. 

SHOULDER-KNOTS. 

2640. For Officers of the Adjutant General’s and Inspector Gen¬ 
eral’s Departments, and for Aides-de-Camp to General Officers . *—Of 
gold cord, Russian pattern, on dark blue cloth ground; insignia of 
rank and letters of corps or designation of regiment embroidered 
on the cloth ground, according to pattern; an aiguillette of gold 
cord to be worn with the right shoulder-knot, according to pattern. 

The aiguillette, instead of being permanently attached to the 
shoulder-knot, may be made separate, so as to be attached to the 
coat underneath the kno tby means of a strap or tongue passing 
through the lower fastening of the knot.— [G. O. 67, 1873.] 

2641. For Officers of other Staff Corps. —Same as above de¬ 
scribed, without the aiguillette. 

2642. For Officers of the Signal Corps. —Same as above de¬ 
scribed, without the aiguillette. The distinctive insignia will be 
according to the pattern deposited in the office of the Chief Signal 
Officer.—[G. O. 86, 1878.] 

2643. Whenever the full dress coat is worn by officers on 
duty, the prescribed epaulettes or shoulder-knots will be attached. 
Letters to be embroidered on shoulder-knots in old English. 

2644. Adjutant General's Department. —A solid shield of silver 
bearing thirteen stars, according to pattern in the Adjutant Gen¬ 
eral’s Office. For an Assistent Adjutant General with the rank of 
Colonel, it will be worn on the bullion of the knot, midway 
between the upper fastening and the pad. — [G. O. 67, 1863; G. O. 
107, 1872.] 

2645. Inspector General’s Department .—|. yl. 

Bureau of Military Justice. —JA. 

Quartermaster s Department. —Q. pi. 

Subsistence Department. — *9. yl. 

Medical Department.—ffi. pi. 

Pay Department! — 11. jp. 

Engineer Corps. —A silver turreted castle of metal one 
and four-tenths inches in width by nine-tenths of an inch in height. 
— [G. O. 107, 1872.] 

2652. Ordnance Department. —A shell and flame in silver 
embroidery one and four-tenths inches in width by nine-tenths of 
an inch in height.— \G. O. 107, 1872.] 


2646. 

2647. 

2648. 

2649. 

2650. 

2651. 


Concluded on Page 46. 


*Aides-de-Camp and the Military Secretary, who have increased rank, will 
wear the aiguillette with the uniform of the General Staff. Aides-de-Camp to 
Major and Brigadier Generals will wear the aiguillette with the uniform of 
their regiments and corps. 




















































































































46 DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 20. 

Draft of a Vest. 


On this Plate we represent a draft of a vest from the same 
measurements as on last Plate. For measuring and drafting the 
above see Plate 19. Extras for fat mans vest, place a V in the bot¬ 
tom of vest by the front of pocket, and make another V under the 
pockets and allow on bottom of vest for the same. 



OUR BOOK OF SELF-INSTRUCTION IN OUR SELF¬ 
BALANCING SYSTEM ON ACTUAL MEASURING 
AND CUTTING; IMPROVED FOR 1888-89. 

To dress, cloak and suitmakers, furriers and others, we wish 
to call attention to our new and improved system of cutting per¬ 
fect garments, a system simple in its construction, based on ma¬ 
thematical and practical principles, which can easily be mastered, 
and will compensate the pupil a thousand times over with its 
results. It has been compiled after many years constant and 
careful study and experimedting, and stands without a rival either 
in Europe or America. It contains in all styles and forms : 

Jackets Raglans Skirts 

Sacques Wraps Riding Skirts 

Newmarkets Circulars “ Trousers 

Childrens' Garmetits .—Trigonometrical construction for all 
forms. II also contains how to take measure without any instru¬ 
ment. 

Price for the above work, only $15 each complete, ready for 
outting ; bound in cloth. 

This book should be read by every dress, suit, and cloak- 
maker in the world, for there is, as yet, no book of its merit pub¬ 
lished here or abroad, and is actually invaluable, for to those in 
practice they are enabled to cut any garment in at least ten 
minutes. Read only one of many instances. A gentleman and 
his wife from Philadelphia arrived at our Academy not long ago. 
The gentleman, a tailor by profession, to learn cutting, etc. After 
being in New York a few days, meanwhile applying himself de- 
ligently, we told him to fit his wife. He was surprised, and asked 
us if we really meant it that he could do so after only a few les¬ 
sons. We encouraged him, and his wife proceeded immediately 
to one of the stores and bought material for, as she expressed it, 
“ the trial fit ” ; but her astonishment, if possible, exceeded her 
husband’s surprise when, after basting what he had cut, she tried 
it on, and lo ! a more perfect fit, she declared, she had not re¬ 
ceived from the finest dressmakers in the City of Brotherly Love, 
and, turning to her husband, she said : “Had we only known 
this years ago you would not now be gray-headed, but would have 
been richer and younger looking, and had the best class of cus¬ 
tomers in Philadelphia. This, dressmakers, etc., will see that it 
is too their best interests to have a copy of this really invaluable 
work. It will save time, trouble, labor, and expense, and we 
guarantee it to be the best in existence. Order now and enjoy 
the results. 



This is is a subject of vital importance which is too often 
neglected by the cutters—that is, to make a study of the effect of 
the combination of colors and their bearing upon the styles of 
garments most becoming to the variodS customers. 

A man who is short and thick requires a different character 
of garment from one who is tall and slender. While one color, 
or certain combination's of colors, will have a pleasing effect upon 
one, the same upon another will have a contrary effect. 

A short and stout man will go to his tailor wanting a certain 
style of goods made into a certain style of garment. He wants 
it because he saw a suit similar in every respect upon his well¬ 
shaped and tall friend, which was very becoming to him. The 
goods are purchased and the garments made, but the short and 
stout customer is dissatisfied, and insists that the suit does not 
fit, and he is not at all pleased with its appearance. The cutter 
examines the suit, and is surprised at this adverse criticism—it 
does fit in every respect, and, as the points of its perfection are , 
pointed out to the customer one by one, and he is shown that the 
suit is faultless, he reluctantly admits the force of the agreement, 
but insists that it looks entirely different upon him from his well- 
proportioned friend, and wonders why the difference is so ap¬ 
parent and the garments so ill-becoming to him. Not once has 
the vast difference in the shape and style of the men impressed 
itself upon his mind. A little thought upon his part, or a few well- 
considered suggestions from the cutter upon this subject, would 
have convinced him of his error in ordering such shades of goods 
or styles of garments. But the customer alone is not to blame in 
the majority of cases, for the cutter, who stood silently by and 
acquiesced in his selection, should be charged with blame for 
making up the garments without offering a protest. Sorry am I 
to say it, but it is true, that not every cutter is sufficiently ed¬ 
ucated on this important subject to offer advice, and, through this 
culpable ignorance, neglects an impoitant duty to his customer. A 
doctor who is ignorant in any impoitant part of his profession 
would be denominated “incompetent." A lawyer who had neglect¬ 
ed to inform himself thoroughly upon the ethics of his profession 
would be called “ non-compos, " and a cutter who so neglects this 
important part of his education will never attain eminence. He 
should so thoroughly study this subject that the moment he in¬ 
spects a customer he should be able to decide without hesitation 
and correctly not only the style of garment most becoming, but 
the style of goods and shade of colors most desirable and suitable 
for his shape, size, style, and complexion. All these points are 
necessary to be comprehended and duly studied, and the cutter 
who studies them the most comprehensible and acquires a due 
appreciation of their bearing will prove the most successful, and, 
finally, attain eminence, distinction, and wealth. 

The late Mr. James Croney, who had a'world-wide reputation, 
and was justly admitted to be pre-eminent in his profession, 
attributed his success and position in a great degree to his knowl¬ 
edge of this subject. No one who aims at perfection in his pro¬ 
fession should attempt to climb the hill of distinction without an 
acquaintance and thorough understanding of this subject. 


Continued on Page 48. 





































PLATE 





































































4 8 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 21. 


The Eat Man’s Fants. 


2 - 


On this Plate we represent a draft of a fat man's pants. 

In drafting the pants draft the same as on Plate 13, with the 
extra allowance from A to B, from 2 to 3 inches. C, allow 2 
inches from central line. 

****** This presents the extras for broad folds. 


MEASUREMENT. 

24 - 44 - 3 1 - 5 1 - 53 - 2 5 - 21 




UNIFORM OF THE ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES. 


Concluded from Page 44. 

2653. For Officers of Cavalry, Artillery and Infantry .—Of tfie 
same pattern as for the Staff Corps, but on cloth of the same 
color as the facings of their arm, with insignia of rank and num¬ 
ber of regiment embroidered on the cloth ground, according to 
pattern. 

2654. For Regimental Adjutants .—Of same pattern as for other 
officers of their arm, but with aiguillettes attached. 


INSIGNIA OF RANK ON SHOULDER-KNOTS. 

2655. For a Colonel. —A silver embroidered eagle at the cen¬ 
ter of the pad. 

2656. For a Lieutenant Colonel. —Two silver embroidered 
leaves, one at each end of pad. 

2657. For a Major .—Two gold embroidered leaves, one at 
each end of pad. 

2658. For a Captain .—Two silver embroidered bars at each 
end of pad. 

2659. For a 1st Lieutenant. —One silver embroidered bar at 
each end of pad. 

2660. For a 2d Lieutenant .—Plain. 

2661. For an additional 2d Lieutenant. —Same as 2d Lieutenant. 

2662. The above insignia to be the same as prescribed for 
the shoulder-strap. 


THE COMBINATION OF STYLES AND COLORS. 

Continued from Page 46. 

How frequently the natural good effect of a handsomely- 
formed man is marred by an inconsistency of dress, and how often 
this could be obviated if the cutter was master of this subject of 
dress and the combination of colors and their effect ! 

A good cutter is much better than a mere mechanic—he is in 
every sense an artist, and, as an artist, should well understand the 
blending of colors so as to produce harmony and good effect. A 
painter, no matter how well he may sketch, will never succeed 
until he has mastered the science of properly blending colors. 
His pictures may possess grace and be filled with beautiful lines— 
they may prove attractive by the correctness of their drawing— 
but the whole effect will be dissipated by an ignorance of the art 
of properly blending the colors. So it is with the cutter, who may 
be able to produce beautiful and correct drafts ; his lines and 
curves may be perfect, but if he is deficient in his knowledge of 
harmony and the effect of colors, all his beautiful drafts and cor¬ 
rect curves will never succeed in placing him in the front ranks of 
his profession. Too many cutters are satisfied to remain as 
mechanics —that is, they are satisfied when they have mastered the 
mysteries of a system, and delude themselves with the belief tha- 
they have learned all that is to be learned when they have gradut 
ated. This is the class (the mechanical cutters) who periodically 
infest The Fashion Reporter’s office, importuning them incessantly 
for situations. This is the class who are for ever “tramping"— 
never long in one place—always “on the move," like evil spirits. 

But the successful cutter is he who, after having learned to 
draft properly, is not satisfied with his present attainments, but 
realizing that he has only mastered the rudiments of his trade, 
commences in earnest to practically learn all that has been theor¬ 
etically taught him. 

He it is who early appreciates the fact that cutting garments is 
artistical and not purely mechanical. He it is who remembers 
that to perfect himself in his profession he must learn other truths 
besides a knowledge of drafting ! He it is who insists that our 
profession requires more brains and less muscle ! He it is who 
appreciates that a knowledge of the high arts is indispensable, and 
at once sets about studying the effect of colors, and the correct 
way of properly blending them together, etc., etc , and leaves to 
his “foolish brother " the fruitless task of searching for a perfect 
system —one to cut garments for all styles and shapes of men/ 

The cutters who are drawing large salaries are not those who, 
after graduating, were content to rely upon their present attain¬ 
ments, but it is those who acknowledged how little they knew , and 
who hungered and thirsted after more knowledge, and were not 
satisfied, and never will be content, so long as they have health 
and strength. These, and only these, are the ones who succeed 
in this business, and are rewarded for their restless endeavors by 
honors and eminence. If you wish success you must follow in 
their footsteps, for thus only is eminence attained. 


































PLATE 21 







































































50 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 22. 



rafting for a lunehbaek. 


On this Plate we represent the extra measures and drafting for 
a “ Hunch Back." 


Fig. I.—THE EXTRA MEASUREMENTS. 


A. Length of hunch. From socket bone, say 5 inches. 

B. Breast measure. Over the hunch, say 42 inches. 

C. Breast measure. Below the hunch, say 38 inches. 

FULL MEASUREMENTS. 


24 - 6 - 11 - 17 - 1514 - 7 

42 - 38 - 35 - 5_i4 26 


TRIGONOMETRICAL CONSTRUCTION FOR HUNCHBACKS, 

ETC. 


As an instance of our indorsement we will relate a positive 
fact that will prove all that is claimed for our system. I refer any 
one doubting to write to Mr. Silleck as to its authenticity. Mr. 
Silleck, of Greenwich, Conn., wrote us to send him a bushelman, 
and, after a day or two, we sent him Mr. Conrad Reif, a hunch¬ 
back. Mr. Silleck, after a time, remarked, now that Reif had 
been in his employ some time, and had become acquainted with 
his many customers, that he should return to us to learn cutting. 
He did so, saying, upon his arrival, that Mr. Silleck could spare 
him for only two weeks, and wished us to give him special at¬ 
tention. After a few days we astounded him by requesting him 
to fit himself. You will admit a very hard proposition, but seeing 
that we were in earnest, yet dreading the eyes of the other stu¬ 
dents upon his deformity, he at last took courage and did actually j 
fit himself, and after basting, tried it on and found that in all his 
life he never before had such a perfect fit, declaring that time and' 
time again, in France, Germany, London, and in fact all over 
Europe, he had to try on, try on, until he was exhausted, but 
never before had anyone fitted him as he did himself by our system. J 
Of course Mr. Silleck was also astounded, and it is said that his 
name, Silleck,” from that day to this is a synonym for a perfect 
fit. What this hunchback did for himself with our method of 
self-measurement, evidently any undeformed person can do, and 
we again guarantee that you also will be astounded at the won¬ 
derful results of its application. 


A Ilk 




Fig. II.—DRAFTING A COAT OR VEST. 


SPECIAL NOTICE. 


Make your points the same as on Plate 2. 

Apply measurement as they call for. 

.B., breast measure, over the hunch, 

42 inches. Apply 42 Inches from 23 to B. 

A. Apply the length of hunch (5 inches) from the top of back 
to A. Now shape the back according to the shape of hunch. If 
hunch is situated on one side, you must cut one-half back on the 
center straight and the other half where the hunch is to be cut 
round andjo be pressed in. 


No one, except in this Academy, is authorized to nor capable 
of teaching any of our Systems. Gents or ladies and any one 
undertaking to do so wrongs us and imposes on the trade. We 
teach our students how to cut, but we do not teach them how to teach. 
The instruction we give a Student is given him for his personal 
use only, and if he teaches another for pay he is morally guilty 
of a breach of trust, and those interested should not permit them¬ 
selves to be imposed on. 












































PLATE 22 

























































































































52 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 



Kadies’ (Jostumes. 


We again call the attention of dress, cloak and suit makers, 
furriers and others of our new and improved system of cutting 
perfect garments for ladies includinn the following : 

Ladies Basques, all styles and forms. 

Jackets “ “ “ “ 

Sacques “ “ “ “ 

Newmarkets “ “ “ 

Raglans “ “ “ “ 

Wraps ‘‘ ‘‘ “ “ 

Circulars “ “ “ 

Skirts “ “ “ “ 

Riding Skirts “ 

R iding Trousers “ 



Plate 23, 



Fig. i. In drafting a boy's coat, make your points the same 
as on Plate 2. 

Allow from point 13 to A y 2 inch. 

“ “ “ “ B inch. 

“ “ waist line to C 4 incees. 

“ “ point 15 to O inch. 

Fig. 2. T his diagram presents the surest and most reliable 
way to cut the points for boy’s coats, etc. Have the plaits made 
on a piece of paper of any style you may desire and many plaits 
you may want. Now place on the original pattern and mark it 
out on the paper ; then cut the pattern out with the plaits. 

Fig. 3. This diagram presents how the pattern appears when 
it is cut out and the way it is to be cut on cloth. 

* | * 

WHAT I KNOW OF DOCTORING, 

The color of clothing has much to do with healthfulness. 

No invalid can justify himself in wearing colored clothing next 
the skin. The dye is usually more or less absorbed, and is 
always injurious, frequently poisonous. Indeed, we question its 
propriety on the score of health, at any time or in any place. 
True, black absorbs and retains heat, while white reflects it, 
giving to white a less heat retaining quality than black ; yet 
nevertheless white or light-colored clothing we consider superior 
to dark color. For summer weather there is no question as to its 
superiority, nor for inner garments. 

The limbs and extremeties claim from every invalid and 
physician especial attention. Not one invalid in a thousand 
succeeds in having his feet, legs, hands and arms well clad. 
Among women the dress usually worn is outrageous, considered 
from the standpoint of health, and among men it is only a little 
less so. The central portions of the body are overburdened often 
with clothing, while the limbs are almost always insufficiently 
clad. The shoes are thin, stockings delicate, pants fine and 
only lined around the waist, while over abdomen and loins the 
clothing is doubled or trebled. How can anyone expect to regain 
health under such circumstances ? Health depends upon a 
balanced circulation and the blood circulates from within. As 
power begins to diminish, the circulation fails in the extremeties 
and the [blood is retained in and about the central organs. 
Clothing retains heat and heat retains blood ; so where most 
clothing is, there, other things being equal, the most blood will 
be found .—Robert Walter , M.D. 



















































PLATE 23 






























































































54 


D1TTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


CHILDREN’S X LADIES' COSTUMES. 


Many tailors consider children’s and ladies’ costumes as be¬ 
neath their attention or study. In supporting this view they stand 
in their own way to a business more profitable than many paying 
establishments which are confined to making men’s garments 
only. Let them consider the question. 

The sewing machine has dwarfed the tailoring business, and 
the only compensation to the tailor is to increase his works in 
variety. 



He should include all garments for children, and all body 
fitting garments for ladies, with all styles of ladies’ basques and 
cloaks. In fact, make a new business. 

This can be done with ease and with a certainty of profit in 
many cities and towns of the United States. Let it be tried. 

To follow our advice will not cost many dollars, but it will 

cost some brain exercise to work into a large and varied trade in 

• « " 

that way. 

But the end is sure to become profitable if the credit system 
is ignored. 


Plate 24. 




2 - 


Learn to do something that everyone cannot do, and that 
knowledge will serve as capital. 

You may have ever so much money, but unless you maintain 
order economy, and industry, you cannot succeed. 

But with these and a knowledge of your business you cannot 
fail unless you throw away your property by indiscrimate credit. 

If you do not understand how to cut and draft these garments, 
zve can teach you, or we can furnish you with full sets of reliable 
and fully tested patterns for a small sum of money. 

We speak of what we know, and know whereof we speak. 
This is not “ a baseless fabric of a dream,” but an acknowledged 
fact, and those will admit who have embraced the whole range 
of garment making — it pays! try it ! 


T ig- 1 presents a style of a fancy jacket and shows how plaits 
are set in. 

Fig. 2 presents a style of a Norfolk jacket. 

Fig. 3 represents a handsome style of kilt suit. In drafting 
the above, to be done the same as on Plate 2, according to mea¬ 
sure as it calls for. 

For drafting the kilt skirt see next page. 

At a recent meeting of the Exchange it was unanimously re¬ 
solved that in consequence of the death of our friend and brother 
member, Mr. L. Phyliky, the Acaeemy should be placed under 
the direction of Mr. L. Dittmar,, who was Mr. Phyliky’s able as¬ 
sistant,. Mr. Dittmar has lately associated himself with Prof. N. 
Sheifer, formerly of East Fourteenth Street, who is so well and 
favorably known as pre-eminent in the art of cutting, grading, and 
designing. Through the reputation they have justly earned being 
perfect masters of their art, the Academy to-day numbers among 
its pupils, present and past, besides beginners, artists who are 
day by day stepping up that ladder, the top rung of which is the 
diploma given those only who are able to pass the thorough ex¬ 
amination for which the Academy is so* noted. 

Professor Sheifer, though yet a young man, has no peer in 
the profession, and, being with Prof. Dittmar as an associate, 
pupils applying to the Academy may rest assured that their name 
alone as being their former professors, is a sure guarantee of suc¬ 
cess as tailors or cutters, for, as Mr. Dittmar is determined, in 
order to prevent any departure from the high standard that this 
institution has attained, will continue to adhere to his determina¬ 
tion to deliver diplomas only to those who prove themselves 
thoroughly competent. The following are the terms for the full 
course : 


TERMS OF ADMITTANCE FOR PUPILS. 

Practical Tailors, - - - $50 | Others, - - - $100. 

Pupils, when competent, will have the first chance for cutting 
situations all over the United States. 

All communications will receive prompt attention. 

Address 

DITTMAR & SHEIFER, 

758 Broadway, New York. 
















































PLATE 24- 







'\\\#^ 


v '"' ' xv ~ 


^m^\\\^vVvT^ 




Fit /. 


rig. //. 


Fit III. 








































































































56 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 25. 


lilt Ikirt & Inee Fants, 




Fig. I.—THE KILT SKIRT. 


A to B. The third part of waist measure. 

C. In the center, between A and B. 

D. Half of waist measure from C. 

E. From B the third part as there is from C to B. 

F. Measure the distance from E to D, and double as much 
trom D to F. 


Fig. II.—THE BOYS’ KNEE PANTS. 


1. The fourth part of seat. 

2. The eighth “ “ “ from i to 2. 

3. Allow *4 inch from 1 to 3. 

4. From 2 to 4 the same as from 3 to 2. 

5. From top line to 5 the same as from central line to 1. 

6. Allow 1 inch from 5 to 6. 

7. The fourth part of waist measure from 5 to 7 . Waist band 
to be allowed on top. 


-- 

THE EFFECTS OF ACIDS AND ALKALIES UPON 
DIFFERENT COLORS. 


The effect of acids upon blacks, purples, blues (except those 
produced by indigo or Prussian blue), and upon all those shades 
of colors which are produced by means of iron, archil and 
astringent substances is to turn them red. They render yellows 
more pale, except those produced by annotto, which they turn to 
an orange color. Alkalies turn scarlets and all reds produced by 
Brazil or logwood to a violet color; they turn green (upon 
woolen cloths) to yellow and they give a reddish cast to the 
yellow produced by annotto. The effect of the perspiration is 
the same as that of the alkalies. Spots occasioned by acids are 
removed by alkalies and vice versa. 


TAILORS’ IMPLEMENTS, 


Stain wood 


Maple 


00 

5 ° 

75 

25 

5 ° 


The articles enumerated below are the best to be found, and 
the prices are as loiv as the quality and workmanship will admit : 
The Boxwood Little Square and Buttonoole Divider, very 

useful to all Tailors and Cutters. 1 

Boxwood Division Squares, 24x12. $1 

“ “ “ 24x14. 1 

“ 24x12. 1 

“ 24x14. 1 

“ 24x12.. 1 00 N 

“ “ “ 24x14. 1 25 

Boxwood folding square with our improved system to cut 

ladies’ and garments, to carry in the pocket. 5 00 

Boxwood folding ruler with, our system, to carry in the 

pocket. 3 5 ° 

Stainwood ruler with the system. 2 00 

Brass belt for ladies’ waists from 30 to 50 inches wide.... $1.25 to 1 75 

Pants Measuring Sticks or Square. 1 00 

Jointed yardsticks. 2 00 

Measuring Square, Sliding Double Brass Arm. 2 00 

Mr. Glencross’s Scales. 3 00 

Genio C. Scott’s Scales, 3rd and 4th. 

5-4 Bevel Straight Edge, joined. . 

5-4 “ “ “ plain. 

1 yd “ “ “ “ . 

Curved Rules, regular shape. 

“ “ special “ . 

Ward's Best Sateen Inch Measures.(each) 

Rubber Coated “ “ . •“ 

English Drafting Leads, soft or hard.(per box) 

Crayons' white or assorted colors. 

French Chalk. 1 50 

When squares, etc., are shipped by express an additional 
charge of 25 cents is made to cover the cost of boxing. 

Address all orders, which must be accompanied by the 
amouut, to 

DITTMAR & SHEIFER, 

758 Broadway, New York. 

Post Office Address, Station D, where all Money Orders 

should be made payable. 


1 50 
75 
50 

50 

75 

30 

20 
1 00 
50 


ALL COMMUNICATIONS WILL RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION. 


Correspondents wishing a Written Answer must send a Postage Stamp. 


SPECIAL NOTICE. 


Having quite an an extensive assortment of Crooking Shears, 
Board Shears, Small Points, etc., we would be glad to sell them at 
manufacturers’s prices, without a discount. 








































































PLATE E5 






































































DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


58 


Plate 26. 

ladies’ Riding Mad its. 

The representations of ladies’ riding habits are selected from 
many examined by us, and combine simplicity and elegance. 
They represent the costumes most generally worn by ladies, 
although there are very many other styles, which vary according 
to the individual taste of the wearers. 

Horseback riding of late years has become a very fashiona¬ 
ble pastime, and our avenues and Central Park are crowded with 
equestrians early in the mornings and late of evenings. 



Ladies especially within the past few years are much given 
to this healthy exercise, and our riding schools are tilled with 
pupils learning the art of horseback riding. 

The skirt of this habit is much shorter than those of former 
years, and is made with very little drapery. It is mostly worn 
with trousers made from the same material as the habit, or from 
black doeskin. 

Riding habits are mostly made from light-weight cloths— 
brown, dark green, blue, and similar colors predominating in 
favor. 


When a boy it was the fashion for ladies’ saddle horses to be 
gaited as pacers, rackers, or lopers ; but we discover that now 
ladies are mounted upon trotters, and we think they have gained 
nothing by the change, and the sooner the style reverts back to 
rackers, etc., the sooner they will enjoy more comfort and pleas¬ 
ure when they partake of this health-giving exercise. 

There is no distinctive style of dress for gentlemen when 
horseback riding ; all kinds ot coats are worn by them. But we 
believe the garment most in favor for this purpose, and certainly 
the most appropriate, is a four-buttoned cutaway coat with short 
skirt; and the next in popularity is the single-breasted four- 
buttoned cutaway sack—quite short. Riding pants for gentlemen 
are made from various colored corduroys—whipcords and Bed¬ 
ford cords—but in a few cases we find fashionable gentlemen 
using light blue cassimeres. 

Shoes are almost universally worn ; boots but seldom. 

The measurements for Ladies’ Riding Waist to be taken the 
same as on men. See Plate 1. 


THE MEASUREMENTS. 


22 - 7 - 11 - 19 - 18-6 
36 - 24 - 40 - 38 - 15 - 24 


THE DRAFTING. 


In drafting the Riding Waist make your points the same as 
on Plate 2 by measure, as it calls for Extra Points : 

A. The third from 12 as there is from 12 to 13. 

B. Allow \ l /> inches from 21 to B. 

C. Front balance 19 inches ; apply 19 inches from line 2 to C. 

D. From bust line the third part as there is from bust to 
waist lines. Now draw line from point D to back on bust line. 

E. From D the third part as there is from D to central line. 

E. From E to E, y 2 inch less as there is from D to H. 

Front darts to be taken out according to waist measure. 

Measure the distance from central line to C, say 10 inches ; now 
deduct the fourth part of waist measure, which leaves 4 inches 
to be taken out between the front darts. 

Width of back is cut gei erally ^ inch, and cut without a 
seam. Take out between back and side body 1 ]/ 2 inch. Now 
see that you have the fourth part of waist measure between the 
side bodies and back. 

Fig. 2. This diagram shows how skirt is cut for the above 
waist. 

Notice.— Riding Waist is also cut without skirt, so you lat 
the skirt on the waist. 


































PLATE 









































































6o 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 27. 

¥he Riding Ikirt. 

On this plate we present a draft of a fine style Riding Skirt, 
which is worn in London, New York, and Paris. 


MEASUREMENT. 


Waist.24 

Hip. 45 

Front Length.43 

Back.46 

Lapp.*.21 


THE DRAFTING. 






1. Draw line. 

2. Square line 2 by line 1. 

A. The fourth part of waist measure from line 1 to A. 

B. Allow 1 inch from A to B. 

C. The fourth part of waist from B to C. 

D. The eighth part of waist from C to D. 

E. The half part of waist from D to E. 

F. 3 inches from C and D to E F. 

G. 12 inches from line 2 to G draw line up. 

H. The half of hip measure from line 1 to H (on line G). 

I. The fifth part of waist measure, from H to I. 

J. In the center between H and I. 

K. Lapp measure, 21 inches ; apply 21 from E to K. 

L. Back length, 46 inches; apply 46 from B to L. 

M. Front length, 43 inches. 

N. Front length 43 inches, from E to N. 

O . From F to O, the same as there is from E to N. 

Right part. 

Left part. 



Some time ago the San Francisco tailors howled about 
English competition and wanted various changes in the tariff to 
protect them against ruin. Then Chicago chimed in. St. Louis 
followed suit. Minneapolis took up the cry. And now Philadel¬ 
phia and Washington tailors are cracking the ears of the 
Republican Senate with prayers for a revision to pull them out of 
their slough of despond. All this is positively absurd. English 
competition exists only in their minds, and it is doubtful whether 
one out of a hundred of the kicking tailors, or their customers, 
ever saw an English made suit of clothes. 


SOME WELL-KNOWN NEW YORKERS, 


J.NT) HOW THEY <1MESS 


Our judges, as a rule, are well-dressed men. Harry Ford is 
the picture of neatness. Of late years a mourning band is worn 
upon his hat, his linen is concealed by a black scarf and his 
ordinary costume is a business cutaway suit of dark material. 
Recorder Smythe is too large a man for a Derby hat, yet I have 
never seen him in anything else, and his massive figure is in¬ 
variably clad in sombre-hued cloth, his Galway sluggers curled 
gracefully over a broad, turn-down collar. Judge Power is a 
little careless in costume ; his hat, generally a silk tile is rusty. 
He wears an ordinary frock coat of dark material and a rather 
low cut vest with diamond studs. Judge Co wing’s collar is high 
and his customary dress what is known as a business suit of 
grayish color. Judge Duffy is noted for the tremendously long 
points of his collar, the swinging tone of his ample broadcloth 
skirts and the fierce twist of his moustache. Judge Martine, 
like the majority of stout men, wears a turn-over collar, a light 
vest and generally a sack coat, short and scant. 

Delancey Nicoll is a daisy. Ordinarily he wears a gray box 
suit, with a dude collar and an ample scarf. He is very neat, 
what might indeed be called natty, in appearance. District 
Attorney Fellows, while very particular about his nails and his 
gold-headed cane and his curly hair, is not as attentive to dress 
as he might be. Not that he is slovenly or dirty, but he has 
something else to think of when he rises in the rr.ornirg, and the 
hours of his days are occupied, as they have been for these many 
years. He generally appears in a Prince Albert coat, a high vest 
and a high silk hat. 

Charles A. Dana is a notable figure. His personality attracts 
attention wherever he goes. He may be seen any day striding 
with virile step across Printing House Square in a high, rusty 
hat, a loose, flowing sack, a light-colored vest, closely buttoned 
over an amplitudinous chest, with trousers of grayish material 
and generally a trifle short, his left hand in his pocket and his 
right arm swinging as though annoyed at enforced inaction. 

James Gordon Bennett is tall and lank and, although he 
spends much money and considerable time over his toilet, he 
never appears well-dressed, except in the evening. The conven¬ 
tional dress suit fits him admirably, but the ordinary cutaways or 
boxes, or Prince Alberts seem to be slung upon him rather than 
prepared for him. He wears a high dude collar, a scarf and is 
the perfection of neatness, from the top of his grayish head to 
the little callous on his heel. 

Joseph Pulitzer is notable for his awkwardness. His hair, 
thick and bushy, stands straight. He is extremely near-sighted, 
of powerful build, bony and thin. He is a man whom dress 
makes or mars. In evening dress he looks well. In office cos¬ 
tume he looks careless, negligent .—Joseph Howard , Jr , in The 
Clothing Gazette. 













































































62 


DITTMAR & SHEIFER’S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. 


Plate 28. 

ladies’ Riding trousers, 




On this plate we represent the Ladies’ Riding Trousers. 

The method most usually adopted to get the length of the 
rise is to request the lady to be seated; then carefully take the 
measure from the hip bone to the seat of the chair. 


MEASUREMENTS. 


Waist.24 

Hip.45 

Rise.11 

Length of knee.21 

Full length.41 

Knee.17 

Bottom.16 

Drafting the front, apply your rise length of knee and full 

length measures. 

A. The fourth part of hip. 

B. Hip measure, 45 inches; take half, 2244 inches, in scale 
No. 2 to X, from A to B. Now square a line from point A. 

C. inches below A. 

D. Waist measure, 24; take the fourth part, and allow \]/ 2 
inches from C to D, central line between 1 and B. 


DRAFTING THE BACK. 


E. From B to E, half of the distance as there is from A to B. 

F. From E, 1 inch below. 

G. From front line to G, the same as there is from A to B. 

H. Waist measure, 24 inches; take the fourth part, and 
allow 2 inches from G to H. 

I. From fore part to back part, ^ inch. 


TERMS FOR INSTRUSTI0I2, 


Terms for a complete course of Instruction in Gentle¬ 
men’s Garments. $100 00 

“ for Grading... 

“ to Cutters desiring to change their Systems. . 5 ° 00 

“ to Cutters for Coat System alone. 30 00 

“ to Cutters for Pants System alone. 20 00 

“ to Cutters for Vest System alone. 

“ for Instruction in measuring, drafting, or explain¬ 
ing points occupying from one hour to one 

day.• - • $5 00 to 

“ for a complete course of Ladies’ Garments, to 

practical Tailors, Furriers, or Dressmakers. 50 00 

“ to others. 100 00 

“ for Grading all Ladies’ Outside Garments. 

Ladies’ Undergarments. 

Terms for Cutters. $25 00 

“ for others. 

Gents’ Shirts, L’ndergarments, and Overalls. 

Terms for Cutters. 

“ for others ... 

“ for Grading.. 

“ for Gentlemen's Dress Shirts only. 

Tuition must be paid in advance in all cases. 


$100 

00 

50 

00 

.50 

00 

30 

00 

20 

00 

15 

00 

20 

00 

50 

00 

IOO 

00 

50 

00 

$25 

00 

50 

00 

S50 

00 

75 

00 

5° 

00 

25 

00 


PLEASE TAKE NOTICE. 


We wish it distinctly understood that no person is authorized 
to collect for us without a Poiver of Attorney executed by us. 
Agents and subscribers are hereby notified not to pay any one 
representing himself as our collector or agent, unless he can show 
his authority as above. 

c -7 T- 5 

-^- 

MONEY ORDERS. 


I11 sending Post Office Orders, make them payable at Station 
D, New York Post Office. 






























































PLATE 28 









































































































































































































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